Search Results for: summer

Three years ago, when I visited Antonio Panico’s workshop in Naples, he showed me three safari jackets. One was constructed from linen, another from cotton, and a third, surprisingly, from a hefty cashmere. Together, they represented how you could wear the style three seasons out of the year. The jackets themselves were a bit too big for my skinny frame, but when Panico put them on me and belted them up, I can’t say I’ve ever felt cooler. 

Since then, I’ve been wanting a safari jacket I can wear in the fall, just to go with the cotton and linen ones I sometimes use in the summer. The key to making these look good, I think, is to have the garment styled more like a jacket than a shirt (which shirt jackets like these can lean either way). That means a slightly slouchier fit, rather than something overly tailored, and details such as bigger buttons at the front, bellow pockets on the hips, and – possibly – even a separate side body panel, so that the jacket has a bit more shaping. 

Heavy cashmere is too rich for my blood, but I’ve been thinking about getting one made from tweed or moleskin. The nice thing about shirt jackets is that, since there’s no interior construction, bespoke pieces are much more affordable than other kinds of tailored clothing (think, something around $750, which isn’t inexpensive, but a far cry from the ~$2,500 tailors charge for bespoke sport coats). You do need a custom shirtmaker who already has your pattern, however. If he or she has to create one from scratch, expect to pay a few hundred dollars more. 

Brooks Brothers just started their Friends & Family sale. The event used to be held mid-season, but it’s apparently gone pre-season now (aren’t we technically still in summer?). In any case, you can take 25% off almost everything on their site with the checkout code FRIENDS. Some notable items include:

• Boots: These shell cordovan boots are some of my favorite shoes to wear with both jeans and tailored trousers. They also come in a suede version, which you can spray with a waterproofer and turn into rain boots. 
  
• Slip-Ons: Some nice models for tassels and pennies. Also a lightweight tie model from Crockett & Jones (available in pebbled grain or suede), which I think go well with casual suits.
  
• Unstructured Shoes: Floppy, unstructured bluchers and chukkas from Alden. 
  

• Edward Green: Surprisingly, certain models from Edward Green work with the discount code, such as the Bordon bluchers, Newmarket Chelesas, and Longmoor wingtips. 
  
• Outerwear: Some Beretta hunting coats, starting at about $300 with the discount. This model has a shoulder strap system inside that allows you to sling the jacket across your back when it’s not in use. 
  
• Shirts: The coupon code stacks on Brooks Brothers’ Every Day Value deals, which means shirts come out to about $57 apiece if you buy in sets of three. Check out their oxford-down button-downs (available in both solid-colored and striped options), as well as dressier chambray and denim models. 
  
• Luggage: Brooks Brothers’ sales are always the best time to pick up Filson bags. They also have a good range of luggage from JW Hulme, if you want something in leather. 
  
• Accessories: There are some nice things here and there if you browse the accessories section. I’ve always liked Brooks Brothers’ tartan umbrellas for their value, as well as some of their dress belts (I use this model). Also worth checking out are the gloves, scarves, garment brushes, shoehorns, tie cases, and dopp kits. My favorite item is this Lock & Co sisal hat. I bought one last year and have been wearing it all summer long.
  
• Sale Section: There are some linen shirts in sale section that come down to an appreciably low $45 with the discount code. Available in both solid colors and stripes. 
  

Last year’s tobacco Fresco run was a huge hit, so I’ve been working on some new custom-fabric projects. This time, however, I’d like to see if there’s any interest in running things through speciality mills such as Fox Brothers and Molloy & Sons. They’ll likely come with higher price tags, but – as anyone who has handled their cloths will know – the qualities they produce are outstanding. Here are some projects I’ve been thinking about:

• Navy Donegal: Run through Molloy & Sons, a small, father-and-son mill in Ireland. The fabric would look something like what you see above. Except, where that’s a smooth cashmere-blend, this would be rough and tweedy. Price is estimated to be around $150 per meter. 
  
• Tan Flannel: Like khaki cotton, but in a worsted wool. The idea is to have something you can use for trousers, which you can pair with navy or dark brown sport coats. (like this, but in flannel). I’m still looking for the right mill, but at the moment, I’m taking to Fox Brothers. Price has yet to be determined, but their usual out-the-book flannels are about $150 per meter. 
  

• Navy Fresco Houndstooth: Patterned summer jacketings are hard to find. This would be a mid-scale houndstooth in Fresco, which means you could use it for suits or sport coats. The color combination would either be in black/ navy or mid-blue/ navy. Price would be about $70 per meter. 
  
• Green Tweed: Specifically, a district check known as Kylnadrochit. Designed to be used for sport coats, which would end up looking something like this. I’m still looking for the right mill, so price has yet to be determined. 
  
• Textured silk/ linen blend: A dark-brown silk-linen blend with a lot of texture. Something like raw silk, but a little more breathable. At the moment, I’m talking to a UK mill and working out the price. 
  

If any of the projects sound interesting to you, please drop me an email at derek@dieworkwear.com and tell me what you might order (also mention the number of meters). Given that we’re organizing this as a group-order – rather than as a clothing label with guaranteed minimums – I’d like to make sure we have the prospect of putting something through before I ask these mills to run samples. 

For those curious, the jacket above is from Eidos, who ran a really nice, speckled, cashmere-blend last season. The photo itself is from Christian Kimber, who just relaunched with a new line of footwear and accessories. I’m a big fan of his pocket squares. 

Let’s be honest, few of us are handsome enough to look good in just a shirt and a pair of pants, and summer doesn’t offer many chances for layering. To make up for the lack of outerwear this summer, I’ve been relying on slightly more oddball shirts. I have a patchwork piece from Neighborhood that I sometimes use as an overshirt, and then this linen popover from Visvim that I like to throw over thin tees and henleys. 

The nice thing about popovers is that they’re interesting enough to wear on their own. Dressier versions such as this one from G. Inglese can be worn tucked-in with a pair of trousers for a classic Agnelli look, while more casual versions can be worn out with a pair of jeans and sleek boots. This one from Visvim is made from a soft, enzyme washed linen, and features a painted and distressed button, as well as a uniquely frayed collar line. Together with the dropped shoulder, boxier silhouette, and antique-inspired print, these details give the shirt a slightly more vintage sensibility. I typically wear it with jeans and some suede Chelsea boots, and then roll up the sleeves. 

You can find Visvim at any number of places. Speciality boutiques such as Haven, Union, and Shiprock Santa Fe carry a nice selection. Mr. Porter also carries the line, and some of their pieces are discounted at the end of every season. For the best prices, however, you’ll want to buy second-hand through eBay, Grailed, or Superfuture. There’s also Stylistics Japan, who will sell you something straight from Japan (useful given the strong USD-to-Yen exchange rate). Lastly, you can check Rakuten and Yahoo Auctions Japan, although with those, you’ll want to know what you’re doing. The downside to buying second-hand or from an overseas shop, of course, is that you can’t return something if it doesn’t work out – but on the upside, prices can be a lot cheaper. 

UK clothier End might be the only webstore that rivals Mr. Porter in terms of selection. They start their end-of-season sale today, where you can take 25% (almost) everything with the checkout code SALEPREVIEW. Some notables include:

• Outerwear: There’s some really great outerwear from Aspesi, Ten C, and Nanamica. Battenwear is worth a look if you want a hooded parka that’s slightly slimmer fitting than what you might get from Sierra Designs. There’s also a large selection from Barbour, although only certain models can be shipped to the United States. 
  
• Nigel Cabourn: One of my favorite designers. I’m really bummed End didn’t pick up this season’s tan Aircraft jacket in a size 36. 
  
• Sneakers: Lots of nice, minimally designed sneakers from ETQ, Buttero, and Common Projects. There’s also a great selection from Nike, as well as a couple of basic German Army Trainers from Maison Margiela.
  

• Rainwear: I really like Mackintosh, although if you want something more casual, there are some nice models from Elka and Stutterheim. 
  
• Basics: For the kind of warm minimalism I wrote about a few months ago, you can check out APC, Norse Projects, and MHL.
  
• Workwear: Yea, yea, yea, blog’s name and all. Anyway, there’s a nice selection of workwear this season from RRL, Orslow, and Levis Vintage Clothing. Neighborhood also has some nice flannels, while Engineered Garments has some outerwear. 
  
• Knitwear: Check out the textured knitwear from Inverallan and SNS Herning. Last season’s fall/ winter stock has been heavily discounted.
  
• Bags: Head Porter’s designs can be a little funky, but I like their simpler models, such as this Tanker briefcase. Master Piece is also worth a look for backpacks (I was kind of tempted by this one last night).
  
• Orlebar Brown: The pared down designs and adjustable side tabs on these swim shorts make them look a little more refined than the loud, drawstring models you see elsewhere. 
  
• Comme Des Garcons: A great niche label for fragrances, although you might want to be familiar with the scents before buying online. For what it’s worth, I wear Wonderwood (which smells woody) and 2 (which smells inky). 
  
• Sunglasses: For summer, there’s a nice selection of sunglasses from Randolph Engineering and Persol. 
  
• Sale stock: Also worth a look is End’s already discounted sale selection. The sale code doesn’t seem to stack, although the discounts are pretty good already. 

Mr. Porter just started their end-of-season sale, with select items marked down as much as 50% (a nice drop from their usual first-round markdown of 30%). Included in the sale is a surprising selection of Edward Green shoes, which are typically excluded from any discounts. Some other notables include: 

• Outerwear: Sizes are going fast, but there are some nice bomber jackets from Hardy Aimes and APC, motorcycle jackets from Belstaff, raincoats from Mackintosh, and general “heritage-y” designs from Private White VC. There’s also that peak-lapeled peacoat from Billy Reid, which was made famous in the last Bond film. 
  
• Shoes: In addition to the Edward Greens, there are these these George Cleverley boots and three models from Richard James. For more casual footwear, check out the sneakers from Margiela, Converse, and Common Projects. I bought the burgundy 1970s Chuck Taylors a few months ago, as well as the all-white b-ball highs. Both have quickly become favorites. If you pick up the b-ball highs, be sure to go down a full size (despite what Mr. Porter’s guide tells you). 
  

• Knitwear: APC has their usual summer Breton this season, while Doriani has an interesting flecked crewneck made from a silk and linen blend. For textured knitwear, I like these pieces from AMI and Maison Margiela. If you want something a bit simpler, try John Smedley. 
  
• Shirts: There are some nice casual shirts from Our Legacy, Levis Vintage Clothing, Neighborhood, and Gitman Vintage. Emma Willis and Turnbull & Asser can be relied on if you need something dressier. For something more affordable, check out the selection from Club Monaco, Alex Mill, Gant Rugger, Polo Ralph Lauren, and J. Crew.
  
• Ties and pocket squares: As usual, the best selection is available through Drake’s, although there are also some nice options from Richard James and Boglioli. 
  
• Bags: Lots of leather bags on sale from Lotuff Leather and Bill Amberg. There are also some Globe Trotter suitcases, as well as this military holdall from APC. For really nice backpacks, check out Master-Piece. 
  
• Swimwear: Orelebar Brown is great if you need something for wear by the pool this summer (they also have regular shorts). For something more affordable, check out Saturdays NYC.
  
• Misc: Lastly, there are some discounted Bresciani dress socks, woven Anderson’s belts, and Dents gloves. The selection of sunglasses isn’t too bad either, and there’s this interesting looking book on French Riviera style.
  

What the hell happened to spring? We’re a good two months into the season, with summer being exactly a month away, but it still feels like the last days of winter. I had a chance to break out a linen suit a few weeks ago, when the temperatures climbed into the mid-80s, but it’s been too cold to wear anything breathable since then. It’s almost like spring never came.

One option I’ve been relying on is a “faux tweed” sport coat I had made through Napoli Su Misura. The term “faux tweed” refers to how the fabric has the sort of district check you’d expect to see on a traditional tweed, but none of the prickly surface. Instead, it’s made from a smoother, worsted wool, making it something like a citified version of a country cloth. Indeed, some people don’t like faux tweeds because they feel like they’re neither fish nor fowl, but they’re also perfect for those days that feel the same. Spring can be an awkward time for tailored clothing, when you might want something to match the gloomy weather, but wearing a real tweed can feel wrong in May.

You can find faux tweeds in a number of books. Porter & Harding’s Glorious Twelfth and Hudderfield’s Worsted Alsport are two of the most popular. Voxsartoria, pictured below, is seen wearing something from the first, while StyleForum member Mafoofan, pictured above, is wearing something from the second. There’s also Harrison’s Moonbeam, which is made from a wool and angora blend. It has a plush, almost cashmere-like feel, and a bit more nap than the two aforementioned sources. No Man Walks Alone has a ready-to-wear Moonbeam sport coat available this season, which was made for them by Sartoria Formosa in Naples. 

Brooks Brothers’ mid-season Friends & Family sale starts today. Take 25% off with the checkout code BBFNF25. Some of the best deals are in the footwear and sale sections, the second of which is where you can stack discounts (there’s some particularly good outerwear, such as this brown leather bomber). Also worth checking out are some of the Black Fleece shirts, which come down to $73 after discount. 

My suggestion for browsing the footwear selection: sort by highest price first. Anything above $300 is usually Brooks Brothers’ better-made models. They do have some nice Superga sneakers for cheap though, should you need something for summer. 

Also notable: Filson and JW Hulme luggage, as well as my favorite pair of shell cordovan shoes. The checkout code even applies to some Edward Green footwear. 

Oki-Ni is having a nice little promotion at the moment, where you can take £30 off any order over £150 by using the checkout code 30OFF150. The code applies to Common Projects and Maison Margiela sneakers, including the two companies’ flagship models – the all white Achilles Lows and white/ grey German Army Trainers. If you’re looking for some versatile sneakers this summer, you could hardly do better than these two. 

With the promo code and VAT discounts, each pair comes to about $275. Note, to get the VAT discount, you have to email Oki-Ni after you order. They manually process those requests, but it’s always a smooth and easy process. I’ve ordered from them a bunch of times and have never had a problem.

For sizing, I’ve gone true-to-size on both models. Mr. Porter also has measurements, should you find those helpful. 

When it comes to absurdly-priced clothing, few things beat $3,200 designer ponchos, $400 grey sweatshirts, and $75 cotton pocket squares. The third isn’t necessarily expensive, but the price feels high for what you’re getting: a 16″ by 16″ piece of cotton that will run you anywhere between $50 and $100. Even the best European mills will sell you half-a-meter of shirting for that kind of money.

Cotton squares are surprisingly useful though – especially in the warmer months. White linen will work with almost any kind of jacket, but it often demands a Presidential fold, which can look a bit formal. Silk can be worn in a more casual puff, but it’s often best with tweed and flannel, as the sheen of silk complements the matte-finish of wool. Wool squares, on the other hand, work well with silk neckties for the same reason, but they can feel a bit autumnal.

Cotton squares, then, are like the spring/ summer version of a wool hank. You can wear them with casual suits or sport coats, and pair them with silk rep ties. Few will noticed the difference between a cotton and wool pocket square once it’s in your pocket, but it’s nice to be able to wear something that feels a bit more seasonal.

Drake’s has cotton squares with big, bold patterns that are as handsome as they are versatile. You can find them these days at Mr. Porter, No Man Walks Alone, The Armoury, Exquisite Trimmings, and A Suitable Wardrobe. Put This On (the main site I write for) also has a pocket square shop. My college Jesse handpicks vintage fabrics from around the world, and then sends them a tailor in Los Angeles so they can be finished with hand-stitched edges (a rare thing, even among top-shelf labels). Vanda Fine Clothing is another great source, and they too finish their squares with hand-stitching.