Search Results for: spring

Traditions in men’s clothing are great, although sometimes a little innovation isn’t so bad either. For the cool, damp mornings we’ve been having in the Bay Area, I’ve been breaking out my Gore-Tex parka. Gore-Tex is sometimes used as a generic name for all weatherproof/ breathable fabrics – much like how Kleenex is used for facial tissues and Jell-O for gelatin – but in fact, like those other products, it’s something very specific. 

Originally introduced in the 1970s, Gore-Tex is a trademarked name for a kind of multi-layer shell. The outermost layer is typically treated with a durable, water resistant finish (to help water bead off the surface). Beneath that is a thin and flexible membrane, which has a web-like structure with billions of microscopic pores per square inch. This membrane is fine enough to not let water droplets through, but allows heat and humidity to escape. And finally, just below that is a protective, breathable film to help keep dirt and oils away from the sensitive membrane. 

All this makes Gore-Tex a much more breathable fabric than traditional weatherproofing systems, such as bonded or waxed cottons. Which means it’s also a lot more comfortable to wear in cool, but not quite cold, weather conditions (like we’ve been having this Spring). My Gore-Tex jacket is from Nanamica, a Japanese label that specializes in outerwear and bags. Seen above is their company’s flagship model, the Cruiser, which is available at End and Barneys. You can also find Gore-Tex jackets through brands such as Patagonia and Arc’teryx, although I think the “heritage-y” designs from Musto might be easier to wear. 

Someone on StyleForum last month commented on how it seems everything has been discovered and there are no more new tailors or shoemakers, or even worthwhile ready-to-wear brands, to talk about. Nothing could be further from the truth. In Naples and London alone, there are plenty of young, independent artisans just starting their own firms. You just have to know where to look. 

Recently, a new bespoke shoemaker has emerged in the form of Nicholas Templeman, a former employee of John Lobb of St. James in London. Templeman worked at Lobb for about seven years – serving as the company’s fitter and lastmaker – before striking out on his own. His house style is classic and English, with construction techniques that closely follow West End traditions. That means the last making, lasting, and welting are all done by hand, with only the sewing of the uppers being executed by machine.

Ralph Lauren’s mid-season private sale starts today. Select items have been discounted by up to 30%, and you can knock off another 15% if you shop before April 30th (just use the checkout code PRIVATE15). Some notable items:

• Anoraks: A bit on the pricey side, but this navy anorak looks like it would make for good spring outerwear. A similar version is available in orange.
  
• Quilted Jackets: A bit more affordable at the quilted jackets. I like the M-65 version, although they also have something in a sport coat cut. 
• Polo RL Work Shirts: Some indigo work shirts in flannel and popover designs. I also like this simple washed chambray. 

• Bags: Lots of bags, including some in leather, nylon, and canvas. Personally, I like the vintage-hiking-inspired backpack best (I own the same one and use it all the time). 
  
• RRL Shirts: For a guy who has a blog called Die, Workwear, I’m unusually into Ralph Lauren’s workwear line. Included in this sale are lots of RRL work shirts, such as the dotted indigo Jack Rabbit, Kane western, and double faced Cody flannel. 
  

Note, in order to see the discounted prices, you have to go through Ralph Lauren’s private sale link. 

When it comes to absurdly-priced clothing, few things beat $3,200 designer ponchos, $400 grey sweatshirts, and $75 cotton pocket squares. The third isn’t necessarily expensive, but the price feels high for what you’re getting: a 16″ by 16″ piece of cotton that will run you anywhere between $50 and $100. Even the best European mills will sell you half-a-meter of shirting for that kind of money.

Cotton squares are surprisingly useful though – especially in the warmer months. White linen will work with almost any kind of jacket, but it often demands a Presidential fold, which can look a bit formal. Silk can be worn in a more casual puff, but it’s often best with tweed and flannel, as the sheen of silk complements the matte-finish of wool. Wool squares, on the other hand, work well with silk neckties for the same reason, but they can feel a bit autumnal.

Cotton squares, then, are like the spring/ summer version of a wool hank. You can wear them with casual suits or sport coats, and pair them with silk rep ties. Few will noticed the difference between a cotton and wool pocket square once it’s in your pocket, but it’s nice to be able to wear something that feels a bit more seasonal.

Drake’s has cotton squares with big, bold patterns that are as handsome as they are versatile. You can find them these days at Mr. Porter, No Man Walks Alone, The Armoury, Exquisite Trimmings, and A Suitable Wardrobe. Put This On (the main site I write for) also has a pocket square shop. My college Jesse handpicks vintage fabrics from around the world, and then sends them a tailor in Los Angeles so they can be finished with hand-stitched edges (a rare thing, even among top-shelf labels). Vanda Fine Clothing is another great source, and they too finish their squares with hand-stitching.

I love linen knitwear around this time of year. Linen wears cool when it’s warm and warm when it’s cool, which makes it perfect for those moderate temperatures in the early spring and late fall. It’s also great for layering when cashmere or wool might feel too stuffy. I’ve been wearing my linen knits on weekends with brown leather jackets, tan flannel trousers, and brown suede chukkas. So much of classic men’s style is bifurcated between formal city wear and casual country clothing. This feels like a nice in-between.

The problem with a lot of linen knits, however, is that they don’t hang very well. Since linen is derived from a plant fiber, rather than animal hair, it doesn’t have any crimp, so the yarns feel a bit lifeless. Inis Meain’s knits are the only exceptions I’ve seen. Their linen yarns have a nice, dry hand and a great spring-back quality, which gives their sweaters some body and ensures that the cuffs won’t easily stretch-out. These are essentially just like your best cold-weather knits, but made for the springtime.

Given the favorable exchange rate, you can find Inis Meain sweaters a bit cheaper abroad, although you also risk getting hit with customs and duties. Doherty Evans & Stott, Frans Boone, Private White VC, and Matches Fashion are good first-stops. In the US, you can find them at Ben Silver, Barney’s, East Dane, and A Suitable Wardrobe (which is where I bought my cream and steel blue crewnecks pictured below).

No Man Walks Alone also holds special made-to-order runs with Inis Meain every season. At the moment, they have four styles available in almost any color, and you can knock the prices down by 10% with the checkout code SF10. Additionally, they have a couple of ready-made models in-stock (which are also eligible for the 10% discount). I bought the navy crewneck last month because these are just too good. Wear them in place of cotton knits when you want to add a little more texture.

End started their fall/ winter sale last night, with 40% taken almost across the board. There’s a ton of great casualwear from a number of brands. Here are some notables:

• Barbour: Discounted Barbour (this time available to US customers). Nice, basic waxed cotton jackets starting at about $200. 
• Buttero: Minimalist sneakers for those who want something different from Common Projects. 
• Mackintosh: Rather than going for the poly-blends and cotton twills, I recommend ponying up for the bonded cottons (they’re the ones that retail for $1,000+). The upcharge is worth it. 
• Elka: Casual raincoats that are a little more affordable than Stutterheim.
• Levis Vintage Clothing: Tons of vintage inspired jeans, flannels, and sweatshirts.
• Mt. Rainier Design: Some nice 60/ 40 parkas to help get you through this coming spring. 
• Ten C: Military-inspired outerwear line that I’ve been really into lately. Made from interesting, but highly wearable, fabrics. 
• APC: Tons of shirts, jeans, outerwear, and knitwear.
• Nanamica: If you don’t mind the price, this Gore-Tex parka is amazing. 
• Crescent Down Works: Quilted outerwear for the chill. 
• Our Legacy: A European brand with very simple, wearable basics. Fairly easy to incorporate into any wardrobe.
• Nigel Cabourn: Maker of the coat you see above. 

You can also go through their sale section, which is organized by types of clothing (shirts, jackets, shoes, etc). Possibly easier if you’re shopping for something specific. 

Despite the explosion of new brands in the last few years, very few offer anything unique. That’s because most are started by enthusiasts – people who love men’s clothing, but don’t know how to make it, so they scout around for the same fabric suppliers and workshops that everyone else uses. As a result, we have dozens of companies at this point offering the same raw denim jeans, Macclesfield silk ties, and made-to-measure shirts.

This past Monday, my friend Agyesh launched what I think is one of the more interesting brands in a while. The company’s name, Stoffa, is Italian for “the stuff things are made of” (and sometimes used colloquially to mean “he’s got the right stuff”). Stoffa is about materials and process, which here are unique because of Agyesh’s background. He’s graduated from Parsons, is skilled in the arts, and worked for a while at Isaia. As a result, he’s familiar with the supply chains, how to design, and how to make clothes on a technical level. 

Take these scarves, for example. Most scarves are made on large, modern looms, which produce rolls of fabric that are then cut down to size. Stoffa’s scarves, on the other hand, are produced on old, wooden, jacquard shuttle looms in Biella, Italy. They’re engineered to produce scarves to size, which means the scarves are finished with a selvedge edge. Since this is old 19th century technology, it also means that there’s no digital modeling for the patterns. Agyesh made these by actually investing in the equipment and experimenting with them – designing on the spot by adjusting the warp and weft threads here and there.

Yves Saint Laurent was once quoted as saying, “I am no longer concerned with sensation and innovation, but with the perfection of my style.” I wish I had that kind of singular focus. While I’m mostly interested in tailored clothing, my eye wanders when it comes to casualwear. I find myself sampling here and there, being drawn to new brands and styles every so often. Here are six newish companies I’ve been looking at this past year. Perhaps you’ll find something to like as well. 

Some people try to improve their lives in really admirable ways - such as with every New Years, they make resolutions to lose weight, quit smoking, or save money. One of my resolutions this year is to build a new pants wardrobe. It’s admittedly silly and trivial, but on the upside, since it requires no sacrifice or discipline on my part, I’m likely to actually meet it. 

The problem with off-the-rack pants, I find, is that even with a good cut, it can be hard to get the back to fit well. That’s because so much depends on how you stand. If you stand with your hips forward and knees locked – like an auditioning porn star, as my friend David put it – then your pants will crumple under the seat and ripple through the back of the leg. It’s a minor thing, but once you get obsessive about how clothes fit, it’s hard to not let these things bother you.

So earlier this year, I resolved to replace all my trousers through my tailor, and in doing so, I’ve had to think about what pants might be necessary in a good, basic wardrobe. Not to say this is what everyone needs, of course. Only me. But perhaps if you wear sport coats often, you’ll find some of these suggestions useful. 

First, there are your year-round cloths, which can start with chinos. I like darker shades of khaki over mid-shades, and find dark- to mid-shades of olive green to be very useful as well. On one of Steed’s visits here, I was able to flip through some Dugdale cotton swatches, which I thought were really good (below is a nice shade of navy in a subtle twill weave, which I’ve always preferred over plain-weaves or drills). Zegna and Brisbane Moss also have great cottons, and I’ve heard good things about Drapers. 

It feels strange to write about fall and winter knitwear in the middle of spring, but with some new Inis Meain models up on their webstore, it’s hard to not get excited. All of my sweaters from them have been exceptional. They’re remarkably soft, but hardly pill, and are so densely knitted that you never have to worry about them losing their shape. My oldest Inis Meain sweater is probably about six years old now. That’s not a terribly long time for a good garment, but with proper care, it looks just as good as the day I bought it.

Included in the new batch are some flecked “Donegal” sweaters that are made to resemble Irish tweeds. These were available for a brief season a few years ago, but were then replaced with a set of really expensive cashmere sweaters. The merino-cashmere blends are priced much more affordably, thankfully, and presumably have the thickness that such a design requires anyway. There are also some buttoned mock-neck Arans with handsome cabling designs, as well as a moss stitch Gansey sweater with a buttoned shoulder. I imagine the second might be useful for layering underneath a boring coat.

Perhaps most interesting is the mock neck cardigan you see above. I recently tried the navy zip cardigan that’s on sale at East Dane, but was disappointed to find that, when compared their buttoned cardigans, the tension in the zipper pulls the collar too far back.

No Man Walks Alone is apparently working on a new cardigan design with Inis Meain, and I’m told it will be made available later this year. Here’s to hoping it’s something like this model, but with a button closure.