In a recent NY Times article about how army jackets became part of civilian garb, Troy Patterson traces the popularity of the garment back to the youth revolts of the ‘60s and ‘70s. “Country Joe at Woodstock, John Lennon at Madison Square Garden, and Jane Fonda on the Free the Army road show all treated costume as commentary,” he wrote. “The counterculture kid in Army gear could razz the warmongering machine that had endowed the jacket with symbolic power, and he could honor boys destined to die in their boots, and he could also effectively affect a bohemian pose.” Combine this history with films such as Taxi Driver, Annie Hall, and Serpico – where army jackets were central to how the protagonists were portrayed  – and you have the makings of a classic piece of casualwear. 

I recently picked up an army jacket from Niche, which I’ve been wearing with Stevenson jeans, Chimala chambrays, Barns t-shirts, and Heschung boots. The open chambray shirt helps create a layered look, while things such as the mid-length wallet and silver jewelry serve as accessories. It’s an easy, no-fuss ensemble that I can throw on in the morning without doing the kind of shoe brushing or shirt ironing that comes with tailored clothing. 

There’s been a lot of excitement and speculation in the last few weeks, ever since Skoaktiebolaget announced that they’ll be bringing a new label into their store. Yesterday, they held a special event for the big reveal. Apparently, the new label will be … drum roll, please … Saint Crispin’s, the Eastern European maker of hand-welted, peg-waisted shoes. 

This is big news. Not just because we have another retailer for Saint Crispin’s, but because the exchange rate between the US Dollar and Swedish Krona is so good (well, for Americans anyway). At the moment, with VAT discounts, the starting price for Saint Crispin’s will be just north of $1,000. That’s a good $500-600 less than what you’d pay elsewhere (although, as always with ordering from abroad, some of those savings could be washed out by import taxes). 

The store currently carries nine in-stock models. There are some dandy options, such as the jade green austerity brogues, cloud grey wholecuts, and pair of “devil red” chukkas (those might require a bit of gusto to wear). Then there are some conservative pieces, such as these beautifully designed wingtips, finely shaped oxfords, and uniquely grained “Russian calf” split-toes (note, this is a printed calf, not the 200 year-old Russian leather that was recovered from a sunken brigantine). Since there’s no up-charge for basic custom orders, however, you can essentially order anything you want for the price of ready-to-wear. 

Ralph Lauren’s mid-season private sale starts today. Select items have been discounted by up to 30%, and you can knock off another 15% if you shop before April 30th (just use the checkout code PRIVATE15). Some notable items:

• Anoraks: A bit on the pricey side, but this navy anorak looks like it would make for good spring outerwear. A similar version is available in orange.
  
• Quilted Jackets: A bit more affordable at the quilted jackets. I like the M-65 version, although they also have something in a sport coat cut. 
• Polo RL Work Shirts: Some indigo work shirts in flannel and popover designs. I also like this simple washed chambray. 

• Bags: Lots of bags, including some in leather, nylon, and canvas. Personally, I like the vintage-hiking-inspired backpack best (I own the same one and use it all the time). 
  
• RRL Shirts: For a guy who has a blog called Die, Workwear, I’m unusually into Ralph Lauren’s workwear line. Included in this sale are lots of RRL work shirts, such as the dotted indigo Jack Rabbit, Kane western, and double faced Cody flannel. 
  

Note, in order to see the discounted prices, you have to go through Ralph Lauren’s private sale link. 

Even among classic shoes, some designs come and go, while others are a bit more enduring. In the world of slip-ons, few have been as iconic as Bass Weejuns, Gucci horsebits, and Alden’s tassel loafers. They were all firsts in their respective categories, spawning dozens of imitators until their styles were considered generic. 

Although not as well-known in Anglo countries, JM Weston’s 180 loafers are equally well-regarded in France and Japan. Theirs is a French take on an American classic. The “Weston” part of the company’s name is actually comes from a Boston suburb, near where the company’s founder originally studied shoemaking. Given that the French company has American roots, it’s no surprise that their flagship model should be inspired by American design. 

The 180 is instantly recognizable, with its split toes, high side walls, and curly-Q penny slots. The style was made famous in the 1960s, when post-Beatnik Parisian youths wore it to the Le Drugstore on Boulevard St. Germain, and later when French Presidents wore them on the weekends. Francois Mitterrand is said to own thirty pairs of identical Weston loafers in kidskin, while Jacques Chirac supposedly wears the same style in calf. And as fashion goes, with popularity comes imitation. A number of shoe companies – from Crockett & Jones to Bexley – have come up with similar high side-wall designs. 

I recently picked up a pair find they go excellently with jeans and thin leather jackets. The slightly chunkier silhouette has air of casualness to it, while remaining a bit more refined than many American models. They’re perfect for the kind of tailored-looking casualwear that many Italian labels specialize in. 

When it comes to absurdly-priced clothing, few things beat $3,200 designer ponchos, $400 grey sweatshirts, and $75 cotton pocket squares. The third isn’t necessarily expensive, but the price feels high for what you’re getting: a 16″ by 16″ piece of cotton that will run you anywhere between $50 and $100. Even the best European mills will sell you half-a-meter of shirting for that kind of money.

Cotton squares are surprisingly useful though – especially in the warmer months. White linen will work with almost any kind of jacket, but it often demands a Presidential fold, which can look a bit formal. Silk can be worn in a more casual puff, but it’s often best with tweed and flannel, as the sheen of silk complements the matte-finish of wool. Wool squares, on the other hand, work well with silk neckties for the same reason, but they can feel a bit autumnal.

Cotton squares, then, are like the spring/ summer version of a wool hank. You can wear them with casual suits or sport coats, and pair them with silk rep ties. Few will noticed the difference between a cotton and wool pocket square once it’s in your pocket, but it’s nice to be able to wear something that feels a bit more seasonal.

Drake’s has cotton squares with big, bold patterns that are as handsome as they are versatile. You can find them these days at Mr. Porter, No Man Walks Alone, The Armoury, Exquisite Trimmings, and A Suitable Wardrobe. Put This On (the main site I write for) also has a pocket square shop. My college Jesse handpicks vintage fabrics from around the world, and then sends them a tailor in Los Angeles so they can be finished with hand-stitched edges (a rare thing, even among top-shelf labels). Vanda Fine Clothing is another great source, and they too finish their squares with hand-stitching.

I love linen knitwear around this time of year. Linen wears cool when it’s warm and warm when it’s cool, which makes it perfect for those moderate temperatures in the early spring and late fall. It’s also great for layering when cashmere or wool might feel too stuffy. I’ve been wearing my linen knits on weekends with brown leather jackets, tan flannel trousers, and brown suede chukkas. So much of classic men’s style is bifurcated between formal city wear and casual country clothing. This feels like a nice in-between.

The problem with a lot of linen knits, however, is that they don’t hang very well. Since linen is derived from a plant fiber, rather than animal hair, it doesn’t have any crimp, so the yarns feel a bit lifeless. Inis Meain’s knits are the only exceptions I’ve seen. Their linen yarns have a nice, dry hand and a great spring-back quality, which gives their sweaters some body and ensures that the cuffs won’t easily stretch-out. These are essentially just like your best cold-weather knits, but made for the springtime.

Given the favorable exchange rate, you can find Inis Meain sweaters a bit cheaper abroad, although you also risk getting hit with customs and duties. Doherty Evans & Stott, Frans Boone, Private White VC, and Matches Fashion are good first-stops. In the US, you can find them at Ben Silver, Barney’s, East Dane, and A Suitable Wardrobe (which is where I bought my cream and steel blue crewnecks pictured below).

No Man Walks Alone also holds special made-to-order runs with Inis Meain every season. At the moment, they have four styles available in almost any color, and you can knock the prices down by 10% with the checkout code SF10. Additionally, they have a couple of ready-made models in-stock (which are also eligible for the 10% discount). I bought the navy crewneck last month because these are just too good. Wear them in place of cotton knits when you want to add a little more texture.

Dress shoes are best when they’re old, but sneakers are often better when they’re new. Which works out well because, if it were the other way around, nobody could afford a good shoe wardrobe.

One of my favorite dress shoes is this pair of Edward Green Dovers, which I’ve worn regularly for about four years now. Although the leather has long been broken in, the patina is just starting to build. The toe caps have darkened and the quarters are lightly scuffed. Somehow, even in their beat-up and wrinkled state, they always look their best on their last wear. Such is the magic of good dress shoes – a truly good looking pair isn’t something money can buy. It has to be worn in.

Sneakers, on the other hand, often look best box-fresh. Picture above are Converse’s 1970s Chuck Taylor repros in their “branch” colorway, which I recently bought for summer. Like the mid-century originals, these are made with a thicker sole and heavier canvas than what’s used today (Chuck Taylors were originally a bit chunky, before slowly thinning out in order to save costs). I’ve been surprised by how much I like these. They go with my Stevenson flight jacket better than today’s thinned out design, as well as quirkier Japanese workwear labels, such as Visvim and Engineered Garments.

You can find the Converse’s 1970s Chuck Taylors line at Mr. Porter and End. Edward Green’s Dovers can be bought at Brooks Brothers (who carries the Dark Oak model I own) and Mr. Porter (who has more unique make-ups). Truthfully, however, with the exchange rate being what it is, you’re better off ordering Edward Greens through Skoaktiebolaget’s made-to-order program. The prices are simply better.

It’s bittersweet to see my hometown Vancouver change so much over the years. When I was growing up, it was a quiet, sleepy city with cloudy weather and an easy-going attitude (something like a Canadian version of their neighbors in Seattle). Nowadays, the place feels a lot more hip and bustling. Their menswear scene, for example, rivals that of any North American city’s outside of New York. You have Roden Gray and Haven for high-end streetwear; Dutil and NiftyDo for denim and denim-related things; and a dozen or so shops for everyday labels such as APC and Gitman Vintage.

One of my favorites is Neighbour – a small, cozy boutique that’s tucked away inside one of Gastown’s hidden courtyards. Although the shop is Canadian, it has a Scandinavian sense of simplicity. Its interior relies a lot on glass, light-colored woods, and concrete, and instead overcrowding the small space with too many racks and shelves, everything feels spacious and manageable.

Some of what Neighbour carries is probably too designer-y for the average reader here, although I think it’s all great. 1205′s Paula Gerbase, for example, worked for a while on Savile Row before starting her very modern, austere-looking sportswear label (she’s also designing a footwear line for John Lobb). Additionally, Christophe Lemaire might be one of the most interesting menswear designers at the moment. He recently left Hermes, where he handled womenswear, and caused quite a stir with his FW15 show(I think it’s one of the best in recent memory).

The rest of the store has things that can be easily incorporated into any wardrobe. Saager Dilawri – the New York transplant who started Neighbour in 2011 – tells me he only carries things that resonate with him. He likes Stephan Schneider and Our Legacy because their designs are interesting, yet also feel approachable and unpretentious (I’m a big fan of Schneider’s knitwear and Our Legacy’s jeans). He also enjoys O’Ballou for their 1950s sense of casual Italian style and the Japanese label Niuhans for their botanically-dyed clothes (he describes them as having a sense of “air-like lightness” and “clean perfection”).

What would be the ideal menswear store? The editors of Apparel Arts thought they knew. In 1936, they published “Permanent Modern,” a fourteen-page article introducing their vision of modern menswear retailing.

The article spares little in details. Included are elaborate floor plans and descriptions of the materials that should be used for the architecture, fixtures, and display cases. According to the editors, things should look modern, but not “voguish modern,” as you want to catch the customer’s eye, yet also make the place feel inviting. They even specified the lighting and air conditioning systems (two whole pages were dedicated to that). Should the reader want to implement their vision, they included a directory for the contractors, suppliers, and equipment manufacturers who could help with the store’s construction.