Believe it or not, the internet is over twenty years old, but despite that being more than a hundred in Internet Years, online clothing retailers have some of the worst product photography known to man. Models either look awkwardly stiff and uncomfortable (see SSENSE and Tres Bien) or they’re inexplicably made anonymous with their heads cropped off (see Mr. Porter and Barney’s). 

My favorite model is the one at Gentry, who has taken the craft of wearing clothes in front of a camera to a high-art. His poses are expressive, engaging, and mysterious – but in ways that go beyond the usual dead stares you see in fashion ads. No, he’s mysterious because you never really quite understand what’s going on. Is he gesturing at something, talking to the photographer, or doing the hokey pokey? Here are my favorites, along with some guesses on what he’s saying. 

Oki-Ni is having a nice little promotion at the moment, where you can take £30 off any order over £150 by using the checkout code 30OFF150. The code applies to Common Projects and Maison Margiela sneakers, including the two companies’ flagship models – the all white Achilles Lows and white/ grey German Army Trainers. If you’re looking for some versatile sneakers this summer, you could hardly do better than these two. 

With the promo code and VAT discounts, each pair comes to about $275. Note, to get the VAT discount, you have to email Oki-Ni after you order. They manually process those requests, but it’s always a smooth and easy process. I’ve ordered from them a bunch of times and have never had a problem.

For sizing, I’ve gone true-to-size on both models. Mr. Porter also has measurements, should you find those helpful. 

In my time writing for Put This On, I’ve received more emails about the jacket above than anything else I’ve posted. The image is from something I wrote two years ago about my typical weekend uniform – a leather jacket with beat-up jeans and a crisp white t-shirt. And although I named the companies that made everything in the picture, I admittedly left out the jacket because … well, I wanted to keep the company’s name off people’s eBay radars. You can get these jackets for an uncommonly good price sometimes (I bought the one above for $250).

Having purchased my third jacket from the company, however, I figured I might as well answer the question. The jacket is from Mandelli, an Italian outerwear company that has been around since the mid-1950s. Unfortunately, they’re not terribly easy to find in the US. Or even in Europe. In fact, the only time I’ve ever seen their jackets in a store was at De Corato, and they dropped the brand years ago. The quality of their outerwear, however, is exceptional and their styling is tastefully European. That makes their leathers easy to wear with tailored trousers and dress shirts (think: the kind of stuff you see in Loro Piana lookbooks). 

Since it’s hard to find Mandelli’s jackets, it’s also hard to find information about the company. From the three leathers I bought, however, and from the one stockist I spoke to, here’s what I’ve gathered: there are two mainlines – one simply called Enrico Mandelli and the other Mandelli Tailor’s – then a sub-line titled Mandelli Reloaded. The Reloaded line is targeted towards a younger demographic, which means it comes at a lower price point and is made in a slightly slimmer fit. The quality isn’t as nice as mainline stuff, although it’s still very good. The jacket you see above is from Reloaded, and the two dark brown ones below are from mainline. Mainline fits a bit fuller, but I’ve had mine successfully taken in by an alterations tailor.

In a recent NY Times article about how army jackets became part of civilian garb, Troy Patterson traces the popularity of the garment back to the youth revolts of the ‘60s and ‘70s. “Country Joe at Woodstock, John Lennon at Madison Square Garden, and Jane Fonda on the Free the Army road show all treated costume as commentary,” he wrote. “The counterculture kid in Army gear could razz the warmongering machine that had endowed the jacket with symbolic power, and he could honor boys destined to die in their boots, and he could also effectively affect a bohemian pose.” Combine this history with films such as Taxi Driver, Annie Hall, and Serpico – where army jackets were central to how the protagonists were portrayed  – and you have the makings of a classic piece of casualwear. 

I recently picked up an army jacket from Niche, which I’ve been wearing with Stevenson jeans, Chimala chambrays, Barns t-shirts, and Heschung boots. The open chambray shirt helps create a layered look, while things such as the mid-length wallet and silver jewelry serve as accessories. It’s an easy, no-fuss ensemble that I can throw on in the morning without doing the kind of shoe brushing or shirt ironing that comes with tailored clothing. 

There’s been a lot of excitement and speculation in the last few weeks, ever since Skoaktiebolaget announced that they’ll be bringing a new label into their store. Yesterday, they held a special event for the big reveal. Apparently, the new label will be … drum roll, please … Saint Crispin’s, the Eastern European maker of hand-welted, peg-waisted shoes. 

This is big news. Not just because we have another retailer for Saint Crispin’s, but because the exchange rate between the US Dollar and Swedish Krona is so good (well, for Americans anyway). At the moment, with VAT discounts, the starting price for Saint Crispin’s will be just north of $1,000. That’s a good $500-600 less than what you’d pay elsewhere (although, as always with ordering from abroad, some of those savings could be washed out by import taxes). 

The store currently carries nine in-stock models. There are some dandy options, such as the jade green austerity brogues, cloud grey wholecuts, and pair of “devil red” chukkas (those might require a bit of gusto to wear). Then there are some conservative pieces, such as these beautifully designed wingtips, finely shaped oxfords, and uniquely grained “Russian calf” split-toes (note, this is a printed calf, not the 200 year-old Russian leather that was recovered from a sunken brigantine). Since there’s no up-charge for basic custom orders, however, you can essentially order anything you want for the price of ready-to-wear. 

Ralph Lauren’s mid-season private sale starts today. Select items have been discounted by up to 30%, and you can knock off another 15% if you shop before April 30th (just use the checkout code PRIVATE15). Some notable items:

• Anoraks: A bit on the pricey side, but this navy anorak looks like it would make for good spring outerwear. A similar version is available in orange.
  
• Quilted Jackets: A bit more affordable at the quilted jackets. I like the M-65 version, although they also have something in a sport coat cut. 
• Polo RL Work Shirts: Some indigo work shirts in flannel and popover designs. I also like this simple washed chambray. 

• Bags: Lots of bags, including some in leather, nylon, and canvas. Personally, I like the vintage-hiking-inspired backpack best (I own the same one and use it all the time). 
  
• RRL Shirts: For a guy who has a blog called Die, Workwear, I’m unusually into Ralph Lauren’s workwear line. Included in this sale are lots of RRL work shirts, such as the dotted indigo Jack Rabbit, Kane western, and double faced Cody flannel. 
  

Note, in order to see the discounted prices, you have to go through Ralph Lauren’s private sale link. 

Even among classic shoes, some designs come and go, while others are a bit more enduring. In the world of slip-ons, few have been as iconic as Bass Weejuns, Gucci horsebits, and Alden’s tassel loafers. They were all firsts in their respective categories, spawning dozens of imitators until their styles were considered generic. 

Although not as well-known in Anglo countries, JM Weston’s 180 loafers are equally well-regarded in France and Japan. Theirs is a French take on an American classic. The “Weston” part of the company’s name is actually comes from a Boston suburb, near where the company’s founder originally studied shoemaking. Given that the French company has American roots, it’s no surprise that their flagship model should be inspired by American design. 

The 180 is instantly recognizable, with its split toes, high side walls, and curly-Q penny slots. The style was made famous in the 1960s, when post-Beatnik Parisian youths wore it to the Le Drugstore on Boulevard St. Germain, and later when French Presidents wore them on the weekends. Francois Mitterrand is said to own thirty pairs of identical Weston loafers in kidskin, while Jacques Chirac supposedly wears the same style in calf. And as fashion goes, with popularity comes imitation. A number of shoe companies – from Crockett & Jones to Bexley – have come up with similar high side-wall designs. 

I recently picked up a pair find they go excellently with jeans and thin leather jackets. The slightly chunkier silhouette has air of casualness to it, while remaining a bit more refined than many American models. They’re perfect for the kind of tailored-looking casualwear that many Italian labels specialize in. 

When it comes to absurdly-priced clothing, few things beat $3,200 designer ponchos, $400 grey sweatshirts, and $75 cotton pocket squares. The third isn’t necessarily expensive, but the price feels high for what you’re getting: a 16″ by 16″ piece of cotton that will run you anywhere between $50 and $100. Even the best European mills will sell you half-a-meter of shirting for that kind of money.

Cotton squares are surprisingly useful though – especially in the warmer months. White linen will work with almost any kind of jacket, but it often demands a Presidential fold, which can look a bit formal. Silk can be worn in a more casual puff, but it’s often best with tweed and flannel, as the sheen of silk complements the matte-finish of wool. Wool squares, on the other hand, work well with silk neckties for the same reason, but they can feel a bit autumnal.

Cotton squares, then, are like the spring/ summer version of a wool hank. You can wear them with casual suits or sport coats, and pair them with silk rep ties. Few will noticed the difference between a cotton and wool pocket square once it’s in your pocket, but it’s nice to be able to wear something that feels a bit more seasonal.

Drake’s has cotton squares with big, bold patterns that are as handsome as they are versatile. You can find them these days at Mr. Porter, No Man Walks Alone, The Armoury, Exquisite Trimmings, and A Suitable Wardrobe. Put This On (the main site I write for) also has a pocket square shop. My college Jesse handpicks vintage fabrics from around the world, and then sends them a tailor in Los Angeles so they can be finished with hand-stitched edges (a rare thing, even among top-shelf labels). Vanda Fine Clothing is another great source, and they too finish their squares with hand-stitching.

I love linen knitwear around this time of year. Linen wears cool when it’s warm and warm when it’s cool, which makes it perfect for those moderate temperatures in the early spring and late fall. It’s also great for layering when cashmere or wool might feel too stuffy. I’ve been wearing my linen knits on weekends with brown leather jackets, tan flannel trousers, and brown suede chukkas. So much of classic men’s style is bifurcated between formal city wear and casual country clothing. This feels like a nice in-between.

The problem with a lot of linen knits, however, is that they don’t hang very well. Since linen is derived from a plant fiber, rather than animal hair, it doesn’t have any crimp, so the yarns feel a bit lifeless. Inis Meain’s knits are the only exceptions I’ve seen. Their linen yarns have a nice, dry hand and a great spring-back quality, which gives their sweaters some body and ensures that the cuffs won’t easily stretch-out. These are essentially just like your best cold-weather knits, but made for the springtime.

Given the favorable exchange rate, you can find Inis Meain sweaters a bit cheaper abroad, although you also risk getting hit with customs and duties. Doherty Evans & Stott, Frans Boone, Private White VC, and Matches Fashion are good first-stops. In the US, you can find them at Ben Silver, Barney’s, East Dane, and A Suitable Wardrobe (which is where I bought my cream and steel blue crewnecks pictured below).

No Man Walks Alone also holds special made-to-order runs with Inis Meain every season. At the moment, they have four styles available in almost any color, and you can knock the prices down by 10% with the checkout code SF10. Additionally, they have a couple of ready-made models in-stock (which are also eligible for the 10% discount). I bought the navy crewneck last month because these are just too good. Wear them in place of cotton knits when you want to add a little more texture.