Designing cloth has become one of my favorite aspects of running this blog. It’s great to see a cloth materialize, after months of planning, and then see readers send their lengths to tailors, so they can be turned into suits and sport coats. In the past, I’ve put together special edition runs of tobacco brown Fresco, navy houndstooth Fresco, and a silk-linen blend I call “summer tweed.” The last one is my favorite. 

It’s also apparently a favorite of readers. In the last year, I’ve gotten more emails about this one than any others. Those who subscribed have written in to say how much they like their fabrics (and the resulting jackets they had made). Those who missed out have asked if the cloth will ever be offered again. 

So, I’m doing one more run of this fabric – this time with a special collaboration with Sartoria Formosa (more on that below). 

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A couple of years ago, Wall Street Journal’s style editor Jacob Gallagher described the Italian menswear line Eidos as “something that only looks good on men who are as handsome as the brand’s designer, Antonio Ciongoli.” I admit, up until then, I had been thinking the same thing. And while Antonio always looked good in photos – wearing trim white jeans and citified bomber jackets – I’ve learned my lesson over the years in not modeling my wardrobe too closely after handsome Italian men I see online. 

Last winter, however, while I was around downtown San Francisco, I decided to stop by Bloomingdale’s and check out the line. The clothes, to my surprise, were exceptionally wearable. The knits, based on old Aran classics, were updated with more interesting weaves and details. The polos were trim and cut with unusual collars, but they looked good when layered under a jacket. And then there was the outerwear, which was my favorite part of the collection. Slouchy, knee-length topcoats – one of which I later bought – paired just as easily over sport coats as they did with sneakers and jeans. You can see Mitchell Moss wearing a brown tweed one on his Instagram.

Part of this is about the editing process. In an amusing segment at Blamo! (a menswear podcast you should be following), Antonio said that he’s tried to make the line a lot simpler over the years:

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Most pants are made to visually disappear into the background of an outfit. A pair of grey flannel trousers set the stage for your shirt, tie, and jacket, just as jeans serve as the foundation for almost any causal ensemble. In the summer, however, when it’s too warm for layering, your shirt and trousers ought to do more than usual. I like slightly atypical tops this time of year. I’ve also been looking for pants with more distinctive closures. 

Almost all trousers you’ll come across have a simple button or zip closure, with more sophisticated ones coming with what’s known as a “French fly” (also called a waist stay). That’s the hidden, interior tab that attaches to an extra button or two inside of your pants, which relieves strain from the top of your zipper and allows the fly to lay flat. Some designers, however, pillage archives to come up with more unique systems. Some are easily wearable; others admittedly less so. 

The more daring ones, such as Margiela’s “sailor pants,” often take after historical dress. Those multi-button designs are modeled after something Regency-era men used to wear on the whipping seas. And while they were once a favorite of Beau Brummell, they’re all but unwearable today except for men who have a lot of time on their hands. Similarly, while heritage-inspired brands such as Engineered Garments have made their versions of Thai fisherman pants – also known as Sabays, which is Thai for “comfortable” – the loose, wraparound style is maybe a little too close for comfort to culottes (unless you’re David Sedaris anyway). Blurhms’ wrap pants, I think, are a better alternative if you like that style. I just wish theirs fit a bit fuller. 

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Globalization has been a double-edge sword for menswear. On the one hand, it’s wiped out many of the distinctive features that once made regional dress unique. There are a million sources these days for Macclesfield silk ties and minimalist sneakers, but few companies genuinely doing anything off the beaten path. At the same time, it’s allowed consumers to more easily tap into overseas markets (and, by the same token, for overseas companies to gain a broader audience). 

Even with all this access to information, however, it can be easy to overlook things happening around the world. South Korea, for example, rarely gets the credit it deserves. While much has been written about how China and Japan are changing our taste, little has been said about how South Korea is developing a menswear scene rivaling its neighbors. In the nation’s capital, you can find some surprisingly good bespoke tailors these days. Shops such as BnT Tailor specialize in Italian-inspired cuts – with their straight, wide lapels and sweeping quarters – but with clothes that often fit cleaner than what you’d get out of Naples. Similarly, boutiques such as Sculpt are as good as anything you’d find in New York City, while the number of domestically designed, Korean ready-to-wear labels is increasing every year. 

Like with Japan and China, however, it can be difficult to navigate the South Korean market if you can’t read the language. Sites such as High Snobiety and Hypebeast have covered the Korean fashion scene, but they often focus on streetwear brands that might feel alien to the average reader here. So, I thought I’d put together what I think are some of the most interesting labels right now coming out of the country – ranging from heritage-inspired workwear to more contemporary, minimalist styles. 

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Sale season this year is moving along quickly. Mr. Porter just made their second round of price cuts, putting things at 70% off just two weeks after they started their spring promotion. Given the size of their inventory, your best bet is to filter things by size and see what serendipitously pops up. Also worth checking back once a week or so. As people make returns, you can expect to see some items get restocked. 

Some things I think are notable: brands such as Chimala, Camoshita, Eidos, Kapital, and Drake’s are favorites and they have some surprisingly good things still left. I also like these Margiela leather babouches, Margaret Howell linen-wool blend sweater (lovely color); Our Legacy washed jeans; chunky Nonnative ribbed turtleneck; Orlebar Brown swimwear; Engineered Garments folk print shirt; Viberg work boots (blessed be the men with bigger feet), Gaziano & Girling loafers, and suede Valstarino bombers. For this coming fall/ winter, there are some heavily discounted gloves from Dents, just $50 a pair for leather models lined in cashmere. Lastly, don’t forget to check Mr. Porter’s much slept-on house label, Kingsman. The stuff there is often made in collaboration with top-end companies, such as Mackintosh and Drake’s, but will often get passed over because people forget to look. 

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I admit to having some prejudices when it comes to tailoring. For years, I believed the best work is done by old men who have a no-nonsense approach to their craft. In the forward to Anderson & Sheppard’s vanity book, A Style is Born, Graydon Carter describes the Savile Row tailoring shop as a dark, intimidating place. Worn wooden floorboards, ancient tables with heavy rolls of wools and tweeds, and a chest-high etched-glass divider where the front of house would take your order. Even Carter’s description of his cutter, the famous Mr. Norman Halsey, is comically cold:

A few years after we had gotten to know each other, I suggested that he call me Graydon rather than “Mr. Carter.” “Of course, Mr. Carter,” he replied. On occasion, I would try to get him to make something outside the mould, something a bit dramatic, to which he would say “A most daring idea, sir,” and the plan would be quietly dropped. During one fitting, when I felt I had put on a bit of weight, I asked Mr. Halsey if he could cut it so the extra pounds wouldn’t show. “We’re only tailors, sir,” he replied politely, but firmly. 

In the world of bespoke tailoring, you’ll find hundreds of little stories like these. All charming – such as the one of gruff Neapolitan tailors offering clients coffee (I once wrote a two-part follow-up at StyleForum) – but they also contribute to this idea that there are prima facia conditions for a tailoring house to be taken seriously. Things that position the house as genuinely inclined to the craft, rather than a slick facade that’s more about marketing than good work. 

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When it rains, it pours. End-of-season sales are coming down this week, with the newest one being from End – a UK-based shop that carries a range of inventory rivaling Mr. Porter’s. At the moment, you can take 20% off with the checkout code VIPSALE. That might not sound like much, but remember the prices here are already about 20% lower than US-based boutiques (thanks to automatic VAT discounts). If your order is worth less than $800, they’ll arrive duty-free. Shipping is also free on orders over $250. 

Since the inventory is so large, your best bet is to scan through the site’s list of brands. Some that I think are notable:

• ArkAir: ArkAir is the civilian-wing of an old English company, Arktis, which has been providing standard-issue military wear to special forces around the world since 1985. Over the years, they’ve sold to everyone from the French Foreign Legion to UK’s Royal Marines. ArkAir is inspired by those original military jackets, but the clothes are cut in a way that makes them practical for civilian use. Best of all is the price. With jackets nowadays commonly landing north of $500, these hover around $250. With the checkout code, that brings them to $199. 
• Barbour: One of the best times to get a Barbour jacket is during End’s promotions. Being that prices here are, again, lower than most places, the 20% discount just makes them even more affordable. Along with core-line models, such as the Beaufort and Bedale, you can find things such as the Ashby (which is basically the Bedale, but with a slimmer body and longer sleeves). See my Barbour Buyer’s Guide here. 
  

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Most of us think of clothes in discrete categories – ready-to-wear, which is what you find hanging on racks, with some companies offering simple customizations through made-to-order programs. A step up in customization is made-to-measure, where a CAD pattern is adjusted to your measurements. And finally there’s bespoke, where a garment is fully made from scratch and then honed-in through a series of fittings. 

In reality, these categories are better presented along a continuum than in discrete boxes. Especially for shoes, where some makers sit between the worlds of ready-made and bespoke. Vass and Enzo Bonafe, for example, can make nearly anything you want so long as you like their lasts. Saint Crispin’s can do the same, as well as adjust their lasts through a clever prêt-à-porter program, so they’re close cutting designs will fit your feet. 

Another maker in this regard is Paolo Scafora, a medium-sized business in Naples located just outside of the city’s main centers. I actually had plans to visit their workshop a few years ago when I visited Naples, but had to cancel because my schedule was too packed in Chiaia – the seafront neighborhood where you’ll find most of the city’s better known tailors. Scafora’s location outside of the area isn’t just about rent, it also represents their position in the market. Whereas Chiaia has small bespoke workshops butted up against international brands, Paolo Scafora isn’t really about either. 

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Mr. Porter always has the most exciting sales, and they just discounted a wide range of their spring/ summer stock by as much as 50%. I picked up a Drake’s scarf, linen Margaret Howell sweater, and some Orslow washed jeans (the 107 fit is great if you want something on the skinnier side, but with a higher rise than APC’s New Standards). The nubuck RM Williams Chelsea boots were also tempting. 

If you’re reading this Monday night, know that some of the sales inventory is still being added. Given how quickly things sell out, however, you may want to browse the site now, then check back in the morning. You can use Mr. Porter’s filters to narrow down the inventory or go through their list of brands. If you’d like some suggestions, however, here are some things I think are particularly special:

• Eidos: A terrific Italian-inspired casualwear line. The topcoat I bought from them last season has become one of my favorite outerwear pieces. This spring/ summer, they have some incredible looking Ghruka pants (size up) and cotton knitwear. See Rubinacci for more Ghurka-styled trousers. 
• Camoshita: If you’ve ever admired Yasuto Kamoshita’s easy-going, louche style, you might want to take a look at his line. His shirts and polos are especially good this season. 

• Drake’s: Do they need any introduction? One of the best men’s accessories brands in the world. The spring scarves are especially nice. 
  
• Chimala: This Japanese brand makes things that feel like they’ve been dug out your favorite vintage shop. The clothes often fit nice and loose, but in a way that’s flattering, and there are often interesting pre-distressed details (I promise they’re done tastefully). One of my favorite workwear brands.
• Kapital: Do you want to look like a wandering hobo pirate in some post-apocalyptic world? If so, Kapital is for you! Not the easiest brand to wear, but certainly fun. (I’m actually wearing a Kapital Aloha shirt while typing this).
• Valstar: Civilian-styled A-1 suede jackets from an Italian company that has made their name off this design. Can be worn with either tailored trousers or jeans, which is what makes these so useful. These really come to their own when you layer them over textured knitwear. 
• Velva Sheen: Simple, great t-shirts. The selling point here is that they’re knitted like tubes, so they don’t have any side seams, but they’re really just soft, easy-fitting tees that flatter. Be sure to size up. 
• Battenwear: Something like a surf version of Engineered Garments. Lots of beach parkas, shorts, and camp collar shirts. All done in contemporary cuts that feel more stylish than their baggier American-made counterparts. For something similar, check Arpenteur. 
• Inis Meain: One of my favorite knitwear brands. Their sweaters are inspired by archival Irish designs, mostly those that have been worn on the Aran Islands. The quality here is just excellent – a considerable step-up from the Aran companies that mostly sell to tourists. 
  
• Maison Margiela: If you don’t already have a pair, Margiela’s German Army Trainers are really useful. They’re a little sportier than Common Projects’ Achilles, which in some ways makes them less versatile, but they still go with almost anything short of tailoring.
  
• Viberg: You rarely see Vibergs on sale, but Mr. Porter has the Canadian company’s popular service boots and Chelseas discounted by 30%. The service boots in particular are great – to workwear what boat shoes are to prep (I mean that in the best of ways). Just an easy-to-wear, versatile boot if you have rugged clothes in your closet. 
  
• RM Williams: The iconic Chelsea. Theirs is a wholecut design, which I think looks better than Chelseas with side seams (surprisingly common, even on boots retailing for over $1,000). 
• Gaziano & Girling: A rare sale on Gaziano & Girling shoes. Just note that the lasts here are on the slightly sleeker side of things. 
• Onia and Orlebar Brown: Great for swim shorts. Orlebar Brown’s shorts are made with side tabs, which I think looks nicer than elasticized waists. Onias, however, fit me a little better, so they might also work for you. 
• Jeans: Mr. Porter has some of my favorite jeans. As mentioned above, Orslow’s 107 fit is nice if you want something skinny, but with a manageable rise. Then there’s Our Legacy’s First Cut, which is fuller through the thigh, but has a nice taper below the knees. Finally, LVC’s 1947 501 jeans are a forgiving slim-straight cut. Probably more useful for guys with classic sensibilities, although the wash here might be hard to use with sport coats. 

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