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No one in the fashion industry ever admits to being in the fashion industry. For all the designers and tailors I’ve spoken to over the years, I’ve found they all say the same thing – they’re not interested in fashion, they don’t follow trends, and they’re about making things that last. That’s true whether they’re hand tailoring three-piece suits or slapping together the cheapest possible black double rider. 

No brand, however, embodies the anti-fashion ethos more than S.E.H. Kelly, a micro-sized brand run by just two people – Sara E. H. Kelly, after which the company is named, and her partner Paul Vincent. Their collections are small, albeit growing, with just a few designs and some basics to accompany them. There are some mid-weight, medium-wale corduroy shirts, including some pullovers with unusual collars, as well as subtly pleated trousers with buckle-back and side-tab details. The stars of the collection tend to be in outerwear, where you’ll find trench coats made from stealth-quality Ventile cotton, as well as raglan-sleeved Balmacaans constructed from the loveliest Donegal tweeds. 

Their collection mostly stays the same from year to year, with a new design dropping once in a blue moon. "When Sara and I started the company, we wanted to do this on an ‘as-and-when’ basis,” says Paul. “Meaning, as we develop new patterns and when we find interesting cloths. Five years ago, we only had three jackets, and the following year, we didn’t have anything new, so we reintroduced the old designs in new fabrics. Now the collection is growing, so we occasionally rotate things in and out, but we still mostly make things with slight updates.”

One of my favorite purchases last year was a custom-made, black boxcalf folio I commissioned from Chester Mox. I’ve written about the company a dozen times before, but they’re one of my favorite makers. Bellanie, the woman behind the husband-and-wife team, graduated a few years ago from an apprenticeship she took with a former Hermes artisan. Her work today is comparable to the best I’ve seen anywhere – including Hermes – but is sold at a fraction of the price. 

The quality is all in the stitching. Machine-sewn leather goods have straight stitches, such that each stitch sits perfectly in-line with the next. Handsewn leather goods, on the other hand, are made with what’s known as a saddle-stitch. That’s when two needles pass through the same hole, either with an awl first piercing that hole and guiding a needle through, or with the holes punched by hand using a pricking iron. The technique is laborious, but it results in a stronger seam. Whereas machine-sewn seams can unravel if one stitch breaks, saddle-sewn seams have to be picked apart using a special tool. 

Frankly, I mostly like them for aesthetic reasons. Machine-sewn seams have visible holes in-between each stitch, but saddle-sewn seams look clean and tight. For people who appreciate craft, the work is beautiful in its own right. 

For a blog called Die, Workwear, I’m really into Unionmade. The store specializes in hard-to-find workwear, heritage brands, and Japanese imports. Basically the sort of things you’d see in Free & Easy, back when they were still being published, but available in one (very large) boutique. 

They also have some great sales every once in a while, which make their admittedly high prices a bit easier to stomach. Last night, they cut prices in their sale section, where you can knock another 20% off with the checkout code EXTRA20. Shipping is a reasonable $10 for most of the United States ($40 to $60 international). 

You’ll find a lot of good basics here. Gitman Vintage button-downs, striped Saint James Bretons, Wolverine work boots, New Balance sneakers, and the lowest price I’ve ever seen for a staple Barbour jacket. I also really like these light washed Levis jeans, which come in the 1947 version of their 501s (the cut has changed a lot over the years, but the 1947 version is probably the easiest to wear with its slim-straight fit). On a hot summer’s day, I can imagine those being worn with this white Arpenteur camp collar shirt and some Yuketen huaraches. 

Most pants are made to visually disappear into the background of an outfit. A pair of grey flannel trousers set the stage for your shirt, tie, and jacket, just as jeans serve as the foundation for almost any causal ensemble. In the summer, however, when it’s too warm for layering, your shirt and trousers ought to do more than usual. I like slightly atypical tops this time of year. I’ve also been looking for pants with more distinctive closures. 

Almost all trousers you’ll come across have a simple button or zip closure, with more sophisticated ones coming with what’s known as a “French fly” (also called a waist stay). That’s the hidden, interior tab that attaches to an extra button or two inside of your pants, which relieves strain from the top of your zipper and allows the fly to lay flat. Some designers, however, pillage archives to come up with more unique systems. Some are easily wearable; others admittedly less so. 

The more daring ones, such as Margiela’s “sailor pants,” often take after historical dress. Those multi-button designs are modeled after something Regency-era men used to wear on the whipping seas. And while they were once a favorite of Beau Brummell, they’re all but unwearable today except for men who have a lot of time on their hands. Similarly, while heritage-inspired brands such as Engineered Garments have made their versions of Thai fisherman pants – also known as Sabays, which is Thai for “comfortable” – the loose, wraparound style is maybe a little too close for comfort to culottes (unless you’re David Sedaris anyway). Blurhms’ wrap pants, I think, are a better alternative if you like that style. I just wish theirs fit a bit fuller. 

Mr. Porter always has the most exciting sales, and they just discounted a wide range of their spring/ summer stock by as much as 50%. I picked up a Drake’s scarf, linen Margaret Howell sweater, and some Orslow washed jeans (the 107 fit is great if you want something on the skinnier side, but with a higher rise than APC’s New Standards). The nubuck RM Williams Chelsea boots were also tempting. 

If you’re reading this Monday night, know that some of the sales inventory is still being added. Given how quickly things sell out, however, you may want to browse the site now, then check back in the morning. You can use Mr. Porter’s filters to narrow down the inventory or go through their list of brands. If you’d like some suggestions, however, here are some things I think are particularly special:

• Eidos: A terrific Italian-inspired casualwear line. The topcoat I bought from them last season has become one of my favorite outerwear pieces. This spring/ summer, they have some incredible looking Ghruka pants (size up) and cotton knitwear. See Rubinacci for more Ghurka-styled trousers. 
• Camoshita: If you’ve ever admired Yasuto Kamoshita’s easy-going, louche style, you might want to take a look at his line. His shirts and polos are especially good this season. 

• Drake’s: Do they need any introduction? One of the best men’s accessories brands in the world. The spring scarves are especially nice. 
  
• Chimala: This Japanese brand makes things that feel like they’ve been dug out your favorite vintage shop. The clothes often fit nice and loose, but in a way that’s flattering, and there are often interesting pre-distressed details (I promise they’re done tastefully). One of my favorite workwear brands.
• Kapital: Do you want to look like a wandering hobo pirate in some post-apocalyptic world? If so, Kapital is for you! Not the easiest brand to wear, but certainly fun. (I’m actually wearing a Kapital Aloha shirt while typing this).
• Valstar: Civilian-styled A-1 suede jackets from an Italian company that has made their name off this design. Can be worn with either tailored trousers or jeans, which is what makes these so useful. These really come to their own when you layer them over textured knitwear. 
• Velva Sheen: Simple, great t-shirts. The selling point here is that they’re knitted like tubes, so they don’t have any side seams, but they’re really just soft, easy-fitting tees that flatter. Be sure to size up. 
• Battenwear: Something like a surf version of Engineered Garments. Lots of beach parkas, shorts, and camp collar shirts. All done in contemporary cuts that feel more stylish than their baggier American-made counterparts. For something similar, check Arpenteur. 
• Inis Meain: One of my favorite knitwear brands. Their sweaters are inspired by archival Irish designs, mostly those that have been worn on the Aran Islands. The quality here is just excellent – a considerable step-up from the Aran companies that mostly sell to tourists. 
  
• Maison Margiela: If you don’t already have a pair, Margiela’s German Army Trainers are really useful. They’re a little sportier than Common Projects’ Achilles, which in some ways makes them less versatile, but they still go with almost anything short of tailoring.
  
• Viberg: You rarely see Vibergs on sale, but Mr. Porter has the Canadian company’s popular service boots and Chelseas discounted by 30%. The service boots in particular are great – to workwear what boat shoes are to prep (I mean that in the best of ways). Just an easy-to-wear, versatile boot if you have rugged clothes in your closet. 
  
• RM Williams: The iconic Chelsea. Theirs is a wholecut design, which I think looks better than Chelseas with side seams (surprisingly common, even on boots retailing for over $1,000). 
• Gaziano & Girling: A rare sale on Gaziano & Girling shoes. Just note that the lasts here are on the slightly sleeker side of things. 
• Onia and Orlebar Brown: Great for swim shorts. Orlebar Brown’s shorts are made with side tabs, which I think looks nicer than elasticized waists. Onias, however, fit me a little better, so they might also work for you. 
• Jeans: Mr. Porter has some of my favorite jeans. As mentioned above, Orslow’s 107 fit is nice if you want something skinny, but with a manageable rise. Then there’s Our Legacy’s First Cut, which is fuller through the thigh, but has a nice taper below the knees. Finally, LVC’s 1947 501 jeans are a forgiving slim-straight cut. Probably more useful for guys with classic sensibilities, although the wash here might be hard to use with sport coats. 

The heart of spring/ summer style for me is a good pair of slip-ons. My usual go-tos this time of year include penny loafers – worn with soft sport coats and button-down collars – then camp mocs whenever I’m in denim. 

Lately, however, I’ve looking for a pair of leather slippers. Something dressed down from traditional leather shoes, but more sophisticated than beach-ready espadrilles. Without the ornamentation that comes with penny loafers, tassel loafers, and embroidered Prince Alberts, these feel a bit more causal and contemporary. Something to wear when you’re hanging out at a local cafe or strolling down the boardwalk with friends. 

Antonio Ciongoli, the talented designer behind Eidos, frequently uses leather slippers in his lookbooks. They’re often paired with smartly tailored chinos or drawstring linen pants, as well as striped Breton shirts, long popovers, and loose-fitting pullover jackets. Unionmade recently used the same slippers in a seasonal presentation (lots of shorts and casual summer outerwear here). And Yasuto Camoshita below shows how great slip-ons can look with tailored clothing. 

There’s a pretty narrow window for when you can wear a spring scarf. And that time is basically now until the end of May – when the weather can be wildly erratic. Crisp mornings are followed by warm afternoons and cool evenings, with a constant chance of spring showers or gusty winds throughout. On those days, having a small, easily packable accessory that can keep you warm isn’t such a bad idea. 

I also think men look better with a bit of neckwear. Bruce Boyer said something similar in his book True Style, which he opens with a chapter on scarves: 

Call it what you will – ascot, cravat, stock – the scarf at the throat is the tested and true answer to the naked neck. It is also the answer for all those baffling formal but “dressed down” occasions when a coat-and-tie are too stuffy, but slacks and a polo shirt are too scruffy. A scarf at the neck provides the right accoutrement to a cashmere cardigan, tweed jacket, navy blazer, or summer sports coat. Nothing so exactly achieves the air of casual elegance, of sporty self-confidence, as a mannerly fold of fine silk or lightweight cashmere with an open collar. 

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No shoe style is more controversial than the bit loafer. Part of is that slip-ons have forever held a slightly louche appeal – and none moreso than the snaffle bit variety. Up until the First World War, it was the English who set footwear standards, and they favored laced-up oxfords in the city and heavier brogues in the country. It was only until the Americans popularized penny and tassel loafers that that slip-ons gained greater acceptance. And even then, they’ve always been looked at with a bit of suspicion. Today, a conservative oxford will say little about you. A penny or tasseled loafer, on the other hand, comes with some preppy connotations. 

Bit loafers suffer from an even greater problem because they’re associated with some of the worst types of dressers – flashy guys in overly slim-fitting suits, with their shirts unbuttoned to their sternum. Or arrivistes who wear them with contrast collars while, presumably, fantasizing about being the protagonist in 1980s movies about finance. If the term tassel loafer can be used as part of an epithet – to quote that famous 1993 line where George Bush complained that Bill Clinton was supported by “every lawyer that ever wore a tasseled loafer” – just imagine the pretentious bravado that can be assumed of people who wear metal on their feet. 

Still, I’ve been wanting to get a pair every spring. The iconic Gucci version – originally designed in the 1930s, just as the penny loafer was taking off – looks a lot better with summer suits than an oxford. In fact, that’s the genius of the horsebit loafer. In one of his books, Bruce Boyer wrote of the style: “It was the first shoe that bridged the gap between casual and business wear. This dressy slip-on was refined with fine, lightweight calfskin, a pared-down shape, and a metal snaffle bit, and as such it became avenue-elegant and gained acceptance in corporate board rooms and country clubs alike.” 

There are a lot of great menswear videos, but for my money, none beat this clip of President Lyndon B. Johnson ordering six pairs of summer trousers. It was recorded in 1964, like all White House phone calls at the time. In it, you can hear the President talking to his tailor, Joe Haggard, about how he’d like his new trousers made in very specific, anatomic detail:

“Another thing is the crotch, down where your nuts hang. It’s always a little too tight. So when you make ‘em up, give me an inch so I can let them out there – cause they cut me; it’s just like riding a wire fence. These are the best I’ve had anywhere in the United States, but when I gain a little weight, they cut me under there. You never do have much margin, but see if you can’t leave me an inch from where the zipper (burppp) ends, round back to my bunghole.” 

I’ve never specified bunghole measurements to my tailor, but I have gotten pretty picky about my trousers over the years. One of the nice things about custom-made clothing is that you start from scratch. Details that you never really considered in ready-to-wear can now be fussed over. Should you get flat fronts or pleats? Belt loops or side tabs? What about Daks? When are cuffs appropriate? A lot of this is personal preference, but in case anyone found it helpful, I thought I’d lay out my own logic for these things. 

Every season, there are one or two things I regret having missed out on. Last season, it was this Melton wool “traveler coat” from Kaptain Sunshine. It’s a long, raglan-sleeved overcoat made with lots of cool details – including a flapped patched, ticket pocket set just above the hips; equestrian-inspired leg straps hidden in the interior; and a perfectly cut collar that looks great when worn up. Most of all, I love the silhouette. Comfortable fitting and slightly oversized, it’s a refreshing take on men’s outerwear in this slim-fit age. You can see my friend Kyle wearing it here with a chunky, cabled turtleneck and some light washed jeans. 

If you’ve never heard of  Kaptain Sunshine, don’t worry – they’re a relatively new label, having just started in 2013. Their designer, Shinsuke Kojima, was one of the founding editors of Huge, a popular Japanese magazine that sadly folded just two years ago. Having left the publishing business, Shinsuke now designs his own menswear line, Kaptain Sunshine, as well as Woolrich’s Japanese collections. 

Like many other Japanese brands, Kaptain Sunshine takes inspiration from vintage Americana, militaria, and outdoor wear. A lot of this comes from Shinsuke’s love for vintage clothing, which he’s been collecting since he was 15 years old. As a teen, he used to rummage through Tokyo’s dustier thrift stores for vintage Levi’s, varsity sweaters, and beat-up military parkas. These days, you can still find him on the weekends at Suntrap, a premier vintage outfitter in Tokyo, which Shinsuke cites as one of his favorite shops.