Search Results for: italian tailoring

Globalization has been a double-edge sword for menswear. On the one hand, it’s wiped out many of the distinctive features that once made regional dress unique. There are a million sources these days for Macclesfield silk ties and minimalist sneakers, but few companies genuinely doing anything off the beaten path. At the same time, it’s allowed consumers to more easily tap into overseas markets (and, by the same token, for overseas companies to gain a broader audience). 

Even with all this access to information, however, it can be easy to overlook things happening around the world. South Korea, for example, rarely gets the credit it deserves. While much has been written about how China and Japan are changing our taste, little has been said about how South Korea is developing a menswear scene rivaling its neighbors. In the nation’s capital, you can find some surprisingly good bespoke tailors these days. Shops such as BnT Tailor specialize in Italian-inspired cuts – with their straight, wide lapels and sweeping quarters – but with clothes that often fit cleaner than what you’d get out of Naples. Similarly, boutiques such as Sculpt are as good as anything you’d find in New York City, while the number of domestically designed, Korean ready-to-wear labels is increasing every year. 

Like with Japan and China, however, it can be difficult to navigate the South Korean market if you can’t read the language. Sites such as High Snobiety and Hypebeast have covered the Korean fashion scene, but they often focus on streetwear brands that might feel alien to the average reader here. So, I thought I’d put together what I think are some of the most interesting labels right now coming out of the country – ranging from heritage-inspired workwear to more contemporary, minimalist styles. 

I admit to having some prejudices when it comes to tailoring. For years, I believed the best work is done by old men who have a no-nonsense approach to their craft. In the forward to Anderson & Sheppard’s vanity book, A Style is Born, Graydon Carter describes the Savile Row tailoring shop as a dark, intimidating place. Worn wooden floorboards, ancient tables with heavy rolls of wools and tweeds, and a chest-high etched-glass divider where the front of house would take your order. Even Carter’s description of his cutter, the famous Mr. Norman Halsey, is comically cold:

A few years after we had gotten to know each other, I suggested that he call me Graydon rather than “Mr. Carter.” “Of course, Mr. Carter,” he replied. On occasion, I would try to get him to make something outside the mould, something a bit dramatic, to which he would say “A most daring idea, sir,” and the plan would be quietly dropped. During one fitting, when I felt I had put on a bit of weight, I asked Mr. Halsey if he could cut it so the extra pounds wouldn’t show. “We’re only tailors, sir,” he replied politely, but firmly. 

In the world of bespoke tailoring, you’ll find hundreds of little stories like these. All charming – such as the one of gruff Neapolitan tailors offering clients coffee (I once wrote a two-part follow-up at StyleForum) – but they also contribute to this idea that there are prima facia conditions for a tailoring house to be taken seriously. Things that position the house as genuinely inclined to the craft, rather than a slick facade that’s more about marketing than good work. 

Mr. Porter always has the most exciting sales, and they just discounted a wide range of their spring/ summer stock by as much as 50%. I picked up a Drake’s scarf, linen Margaret Howell sweater, and some Orslow washed jeans (the 107 fit is great if you want something on the skinnier side, but with a higher rise than APC’s New Standards). The nubuck RM Williams Chelsea boots were also tempting. 

If you’re reading this Monday night, know that some of the sales inventory is still being added. Given how quickly things sell out, however, you may want to browse the site now, then check back in the morning. You can use Mr. Porter’s filters to narrow down the inventory or go through their list of brands. If you’d like some suggestions, however, here are some things I think are particularly special:

• Eidos: A terrific Italian-inspired casualwear line. The topcoat I bought from them last season has become one of my favorite outerwear pieces. This spring/ summer, they have some incredible looking Ghruka pants (size up) and cotton knitwear. See Rubinacci for more Ghurka-styled trousers. 
• Camoshita: If you’ve ever admired Yasuto Kamoshita’s easy-going, louche style, you might want to take a look at his line. His shirts and polos are especially good this season. 

• Drake’s: Do they need any introduction? One of the best men’s accessories brands in the world. The spring scarves are especially nice. 
  
• Chimala: This Japanese brand makes things that feel like they’ve been dug out your favorite vintage shop. The clothes often fit nice and loose, but in a way that’s flattering, and there are often interesting pre-distressed details (I promise they’re done tastefully). One of my favorite workwear brands.
• Kapital: Do you want to look like a wandering hobo pirate in some post-apocalyptic world? If so, Kapital is for you! Not the easiest brand to wear, but certainly fun. (I’m actually wearing a Kapital Aloha shirt while typing this).
• Valstar: Civilian-styled A-1 suede jackets from an Italian company that has made their name off this design. Can be worn with either tailored trousers or jeans, which is what makes these so useful. These really come to their own when you layer them over textured knitwear. 
• Velva Sheen: Simple, great t-shirts. The selling point here is that they’re knitted like tubes, so they don’t have any side seams, but they’re really just soft, easy-fitting tees that flatter. Be sure to size up. 
• Battenwear: Something like a surf version of Engineered Garments. Lots of beach parkas, shorts, and camp collar shirts. All done in contemporary cuts that feel more stylish than their baggier American-made counterparts. For something similar, check Arpenteur. 
• Inis Meain: One of my favorite knitwear brands. Their sweaters are inspired by archival Irish designs, mostly those that have been worn on the Aran Islands. The quality here is just excellent – a considerable step-up from the Aran companies that mostly sell to tourists. 
  
• Maison Margiela: If you don’t already have a pair, Margiela’s German Army Trainers are really useful. They’re a little sportier than Common Projects’ Achilles, which in some ways makes them less versatile, but they still go with almost anything short of tailoring.
  
• Viberg: You rarely see Vibergs on sale, but Mr. Porter has the Canadian company’s popular service boots and Chelseas discounted by 30%. The service boots in particular are great – to workwear what boat shoes are to prep (I mean that in the best of ways). Just an easy-to-wear, versatile boot if you have rugged clothes in your closet. 
  
• RM Williams: The iconic Chelsea. Theirs is a wholecut design, which I think looks better than Chelseas with side seams (surprisingly common, even on boots retailing for over $1,000). 
• Gaziano & Girling: A rare sale on Gaziano & Girling shoes. Just note that the lasts here are on the slightly sleeker side of things. 
• Onia and Orlebar Brown: Great for swim shorts. Orlebar Brown’s shorts are made with side tabs, which I think looks nicer than elasticized waists. Onias, however, fit me a little better, so they might also work for you. 
• Jeans: Mr. Porter has some of my favorite jeans. As mentioned above, Orslow’s 107 fit is nice if you want something skinny, but with a manageable rise. Then there’s Our Legacy’s First Cut, which is fuller through the thigh, but has a nice taper below the knees. Finally, LVC’s 1947 501 jeans are a forgiving slim-straight cut. Probably more useful for guys with classic sensibilities, although the wash here might be hard to use with sport coats. 

There’s an old adage often passed around by men who use bespoke tailors: don’t stray far from the house style. And for good reason. The best tailors specialize in certain looks, which they’ve carefully perfected over the years. Just as you wouldn’t order French food at Nobu, you shouldn’t ask for an Italian jacket from an English tailor. Even if he or she is willing to make it for you, it probably won’t look very good. 

Sometimes, however, under the right hands, straying works. Last year, George Wang at BRIO told me about a new project he’s been working on with Hong Kong tailoring house W.W. Chan. They specialize in clean, classic, British-influenced cuts, but are also a bit more flexible than other tailors in terms of what they’re willing to make. 

For the last couple of years, George has been working with W.W. Chan to create a distinctive house style for his store. When I met up with him last January, he brought a sample jacket, which was maybe it in its third or fourth iteration. “You can’t just give a tailor a big list of changes,” said George. “You have to see how small changes affect the look here and there through each commission. Plus, tailors can be set in their ways, so it’s easier to make these changes in piecemeal steps.”

Japan has one of the most vibrant communities of bespoke tailors and shoemakers in the world, but you may not know it if you live in the US. Few get written about on English-language blogs, and fewer still visit the US. For most of us, it’s hard to find information about Japanese artisans – and nearly impossible to order things. 

A lot of this has to do with the size of your average Japanese firm. It’s easier for larger tailoring houses on Savile Row to travel – they have more well-recognized names, and if one or two customers drop out, it doesn’t make much of a difference to their overall business. Things are different for smaller companies. A few dropped orders can financially kill overseas trips, and they typically don’t have the support staff necessary back home to scale up. These are the same reasons why you don’t see many traveling Italian tailors – most of the firms are small. 

It’s too bad since a lot of Japanese tailoring is great. Take Noriyuki Ueki, for example. He started his career at Ring Jacket in 2001, before moving to Naples four years later to apprentice at Sartoria Dalcuore, working under master tailor Antonio Pascariello. In 2008, Ueki moved back to Japan to start his own firm, Sartoria Ciccio, and recently opened his owned atelier in the Minami-Aoyama district of Tokyo. 

I really want to go to Italy this year to commission some things from a few tailors. There’s been a lot of talk lately about how bespoke tailoring is on the decline – things aren’t as good as they were a generation ago and tailoring shops are slowly being converted into ready-to-wear brands. There’s a kernel of truth in that, but there’s also a lot of new talent in the trade and inspiring work being done. I’m not as down on traditional crafts as some of my friends. 

It is true, however, that the older generation is starting to retire, especially in Italy. And when they go, they’ll take with them their sense of style. Not that the younger generation is bad – the two are just different. The older generation is more inspired by 1950s fashion, while the younger generation makes things a bit flashier and, at times, more form fitting (with exceptions). I like both, but there’s something special to me about that older generation look. 

I thought about this other day as I was looking through these photos of Kentaro Nakagomi, owner of the new outerwear label Coherence. Kentaro gets some of his things from Loris Vestrucci, an older Florentine tailor who was a legend of his time, but is rarely talked about online. Unfortunately, Vestrucci is semi-retired now. He’ll still make things for some of his clients, but he won’t take new customers. Trust me, I tried. 

Gloves aren’t just a style statement this time of year; they’re a practical necessity if you live someplace cold. I’m in Canada at the moment, visiting family, and can’t even leave the house without a pair already on. Plus, check out Luciano Barbera’s beautifully aged gloves pictured above – old and richly patina’d from years of use. Such gracefully aged gloves can be a nice way to add interest to a winter ensemble. 

If you can only own one pair, get them in dark brown. Something made from a soft and supple Nappa leather will be versatile enough to go with almost anything. You’ll also want to get them wool-lined, if not at least cashmere-lined. Unlined gloves fit closer to the hand, but you’ll appreciate the added warmth of wool-lined gloves when temperatures drop below forty. 

If you have room for more than one pair, however, I think it’s nice to get some that go with certain outfits. Think about the material, stitching, lining, and even silhouette (yes, gloves have silhouettes). A rundown of what I find particularly useful for my wardrobe:

Even for guys who have been reading about bespoke tailoring for years, the world of bespoke footwear remains opaque. There’s not a lot of published information on the subject, and what’s available is often written in Japanese. Next month, however, there will be a new English text that promises to be interesting. Master Shoemakers is a new book by Gary Tok (known to some as gazman70k on StyleForum). For the last couple of years, he’s been traveling around the world, meeting and and talking with shoemakers – partly as a client looking for nice shoes, but also as a writer documenting a dying craft. 

Master Shoemakers features eleven shoemakers and shoemaking firms from France, Germany, Italy and the UK. They included storied names such as GJ Cleverley, John Lobb Bootmaker, and Foster & Son, as well as niche artisans such as Anthony Delos, Hidetaka Fukaya, Benjamin Klemann, Roberto Ugolini, and Stefano Bemer (before his passing). As far as I know, this is the only book of its kind. I recently sat down with Gary to talk about his project. 

What spurred you to write this book?

I like clothes in the summer that make you feel like you’re at home. Loosely-cut linen shirts that feel like pajamas, softly-tailored sport coats that disappear from your mind, and unlined loafers that wear like bedroom slippers. With the right clothes, every cafe and office can vaguely feel like you’re still bumming around your living room. 

I recently picked up a new pair of unlined pennies – Edward Green’s Harrow, which I’ve been pining over for years. On the surface, they’re just an unlined loafer with a pie-crust apron, much like you’d find on the company’s Dovers. The design, however, is actually by Wildsmith, a famed bespoke shoemaking firm that lasted for seven generations before shutting down. The company used to travel with some of London’s best tailoring companies, offering what they called their “three s’s”: shoes, shirts, and suits. 

The style was originally a bespoke country-house shoe made for King George VI, younger brother to the Duke of Windsor, Edward VIII. As the story goes, they were made slightly big so that he could wear them indoors with shooting hose. At some point, Wildsmith shut down the bespoke side of their operation and sold ready-made shoes produced by Edward Green (and, at times, Crockett & Jones). That’s how the Wildsmith loafer became the Edward Green Harrow. 

There are a lot of guides these days on how to dress for your body type. Some people argue that shorter men do better in two-button jackets, as they have a longer lapel line (and thus give the illusion of greater height by virtue of extending those vertical lines). Others say that heavy men should avoid double-breasted jackets, as the extra bit of wraparound cloth can add visual weight. 

I’ve never bought too much into those arguments, partly because there are so many good counterexamples to every rule. Plus, most of those writers seem to rely more on rhetorical devices than actual evidence. 

There are two rule-of-thumbs I follow, however. First, shorter jackets make you look heavier than you are, which means they’re only ever good on stick-thin models whose shoulders are broader than their hips. Second, if you have a less-than-athletic figure, you may benefit from having a little extra room in the shoulders and chest. The second is known as drape; the first an extended shoulder.