Before we had Tumblr, Wordpress, and Blogspot, some of the best menswear blogs were obscure Japanese sites that looked like they were designed during the heydays of Geocities. Centipede and Cobbler’s Web were among the best, but neither have been updated for a while. Until now, anyway. Cobbler’s Web is apparently posting again – both as a blog and on Instagram – under the name “Not Fashion, but Style.” (It’s admittedly a bit corny, but I’m hardly one to judge bad blog titles).

The blog is unfortunately written in Japanese, so unless you know the language, you’ll have to rely on the rough translations provided by Google Translate. He does write some English captions on his Instagram account though. There, you’ll find photos of bespoke shoes from G.J. Cleverley, Koji Suzuki, and John Lobb of St. James in London; vintage Edward Greens from the early John Hlustik days; and suits from Henry Poole and Liverano & Liverano. There’s also the only known (headless) selfie of the man behind the site, which I’ve included at the end of this post. 

Keep reading

I can’t believe it took me over a year to get these boots. The market for shell cordovan, if you haven’t heard, has gotten crazy. Leather is a by-product of the meat trade, which means the decline in equine meat consumption has made it harder and harder for tanneries to get horsehides. Combine that with an increase in demand and the fact that it takes six times longer to tan shell than calf, and you have an increasingly rare leather. 

Horween – the Chicago tannery that makes most of the shell cordovan used for footwear – has responded by focusing on dark colors, such as their famous #8 (a deep brown with hues of purple and red). That’s because light colors are trickier to tan and require completely unblemished hides (which make up only a small fraction of what Horween gets in). As a result, you can still get color #8 pretty easily, but almost nothing else. 

There are some exceptions. Vass sometimes gets unusual colors in, and they’re happy to make things on a made-to-order basis (if you’re in the US, you’ll have to order through No Man Walks Alone). Carmina is another good source, and Viberg is slated to produce mahogany shell service boots later this year. Meermin has also switched to Japanese shell cordovan, which is slightly lighter and thinner than the Horween stuff, but just as beautiful and hard-wearing.

Keep reading

Is it too late for a Father’s Day post? Each year, Free & Easy dedicates an issue to what they call “Dad’s Style,” which is their way of referring to classic or traditional men’s clothing. Of course, when Free & Easy talks about classics, they mostly mean it in the hip sense. If your dad actually owns anything featured in this magazine, there’s a good chance you were conceived at Pitti Uomo. 

Still, previous issues have featured men such as Bruce Boyer and Christian Chensvold, both of whom have genuinely classic (and good) taste. I also like some of the things they photograph. There are the usual things that Japanese style editors fawn over, such as Brooks Brothers jackets and Alden shoes, to more unusual items, such as vintage bags and raincoats from Arnys and Invertere. I also really like those split-toes from JM Weston (misleadingly described below as “u-tips”). They look like Edward Green’s Dovers on steroids, and possibly just the thing to wear with heavy cavalry twill trousers.

Granted, even among the genuinely classic pieces, I don’t know how much of this really reflects “dad style.” But if the last few weeks of menswear sales are any indication, Father’s Day isn’t really aimed at fathers anyway.  

Keep reading

Some surprisingly early price drops this morning from Mr. Porter, as well as a bunch of new inventory adds. You can now take up to 70% off seasonal items. Included are some heavily discounted Edward Greens (the lowest I’ve ever seen them offered), as well as a handsome Kingsman-line boot from George Cleverley and this season’s Common Projects b-ball high tops (be sure to size down a full size). You can check out everything here. 

Keep reading

UK clothier End might be the only webstore that rivals Mr. Porter in terms of selection. They start their end-of-season sale today, where you can take 25% (almost) everything with the checkout code SALEPREVIEW. Some notables include:

• Outerwear: There’s some really great outerwear from Aspesi, Ten C, and Nanamica. Battenwear is worth a look if you want a hooded parka that’s slightly slimmer fitting than what you might get from Sierra Designs. There’s also a large selection from Barbour, although only certain models can be shipped to the United States. 
  
• Nigel Cabourn: One of my favorite designers. I’m really bummed End didn’t pick up this season’s tan Aircraft jacket in a size 36. 
  
• Sneakers: Lots of nice, minimally designed sneakers from ETQ, Buttero, and Common Projects. There’s also a great selection from Nike, as well as a couple of basic German Army Trainers from Maison Margiela.
  

• Rainwear: I really like Mackintosh, although if you want something more casual, there are some nice models from Elka and Stutterheim. 
  
• Basics: For the kind of warm minimalism I wrote about a few months ago, you can check out APC, Norse Projects, and MHL.
  
• Workwear: Yea, yea, yea, blog’s name and all. Anyway, there’s a nice selection of workwear this season from RRL, Orslow, and Levis Vintage Clothing. Neighborhood also has some nice flannels, while Engineered Garments has some outerwear. 
  
• Knitwear: Check out the textured knitwear from Inverallan and SNS Herning. Last season’s fall/ winter stock has been heavily discounted.
  
• Bags: Head Porter’s designs can be a little funky, but I like their simpler models, such as this Tanker briefcase. Master Piece is also worth a look for backpacks (I was kind of tempted by this one last night).
  
• Orlebar Brown: The pared down designs and adjustable side tabs on these swim shorts make them look a little more refined than the loud, drawstring models you see elsewhere. 
  
• Comme Des Garcons: A great niche label for fragrances, although you might want to be familiar with the scents before buying online. For what it’s worth, I wear Wonderwood (which smells woody) and 2 (which smells inky). 
  
• Sunglasses: For summer, there’s a nice selection of sunglasses from Randolph Engineering and Persol. 
  
• Sale stock: Also worth a look is End’s already discounted sale selection. The sale code doesn’t seem to stack, although the discounts are pretty good already. 

Keep reading

The latest issue of Free & Easy has a nice little feature on sneaker repair shops in Japan. From resoling the bottoms to repairing the linings to even recoloring the uppers, these look a bit more like what a leather dress shoe might go through during a recrafting process. Fingers crossed, I’m hoping to compile a list of similar shops in the US, which will be published at Put This On. 

Keep reading

Mr. Porter just started their end-of-season sale, with select items marked down as much as 50% (a nice drop from their usual first-round markdown of 30%). Included in the sale is a surprising selection of Edward Green shoes, which are typically excluded from any discounts. Some other notables include: 

• Outerwear: Sizes are going fast, but there are some nice bomber jackets from Hardy Aimes and APC, motorcycle jackets from Belstaff, raincoats from Mackintosh, and general “heritage-y” designs from Private White VC. There’s also that peak-lapeled peacoat from Billy Reid, which was made famous in the last Bond film. 
  
• Shoes: In addition to the Edward Greens, there are these these George Cleverley boots and three models from Richard James. For more casual footwear, check out the sneakers from Margiela, Converse, and Common Projects. I bought the burgundy 1970s Chuck Taylors a few months ago, as well as the all-white b-ball highs. Both have quickly become favorites. If you pick up the b-ball highs, be sure to go down a full size (despite what Mr. Porter’s guide tells you). 
  

• Knitwear: APC has their usual summer Breton this season, while Doriani has an interesting flecked crewneck made from a silk and linen blend. For textured knitwear, I like these pieces from AMI and Maison Margiela. If you want something a bit simpler, try John Smedley. 
  
• Shirts: There are some nice casual shirts from Our Legacy, Levis Vintage Clothing, Neighborhood, and Gitman Vintage. Emma Willis and Turnbull & Asser can be relied on if you need something dressier. For something more affordable, check out the selection from Club Monaco, Alex Mill, Gant Rugger, Polo Ralph Lauren, and J. Crew.
  
• Ties and pocket squares: As usual, the best selection is available through Drake’s, although there are also some nice options from Richard James and Boglioli. 
  
• Bags: Lots of leather bags on sale from Lotuff Leather and Bill Amberg. There are also some Globe Trotter suitcases, as well as this military holdall from APC. For really nice backpacks, check out Master-Piece. 
  
• Swimwear: Orelebar Brown is great if you need something for wear by the pool this summer (they also have regular shorts). For something more affordable, check out Saturdays NYC.
  
• Misc: Lastly, there are some discounted Bresciani dress socks, woven Anderson’s belts, and Dents gloves. The selection of sunglasses isn’t too bad either, and there’s this interesting looking book on French Riviera style.
  

Keep reading

Traditions in men’s clothing are great, although sometimes a little innovation isn’t so bad either. For the cool, damp mornings we’ve been having in the Bay Area, I’ve been breaking out my Gore-Tex parka. Gore-Tex is sometimes used as a generic name for all weatherproof/ breathable fabrics – much like how Kleenex is used for facial tissues and Jell-O for gelatin – but in fact, like those other products, it’s something very specific. 

Originally introduced in the 1970s, Gore-Tex is a trademarked name for a kind of multi-layer shell. The outermost layer is typically treated with a durable, water resistant finish (to help water bead off the surface). Beneath that is a thin and flexible membrane, which has a web-like structure with billions of microscopic pores per square inch. This membrane is fine enough to not let water droplets through, but allows heat and humidity to escape. And finally, just below that is a protective, breathable film to help keep dirt and oils away from the sensitive membrane. 

All this makes Gore-Tex a much more breathable fabric than traditional weatherproofing systems, such as bonded or waxed cottons. Which means it’s also a lot more comfortable to wear in cool, but not quite cold, weather conditions (like we’ve been having this Spring). My Gore-Tex jacket is from Nanamica, a Japanese label that specializes in outerwear and bags. Seen above is their company’s flagship model, the Cruiser, which is available at End and Barneys. You can also find Gore-Tex jackets through brands such as Patagonia and Arc’teryx, although I think the “heritage-y” designs from Musto might be easier to wear. 

Keep reading

Barneys just started their mid-season sale, with select items available at 40% off. Some notables include:

• Outerwear from Aspesi, Belstaff, Moncler, Alex Mill, and Nanamica (Nanamica’s Cruiser is a favorite of mine)
• Leather jackets from Seraphin and Todd Synder
• Knitwear from Inis Meain and Zanone (size up if you buy Inis Meain’s linen sweaters)
• Shoes from John Lobb, Crockett & Jones, and Yuketen
• Sneakers from Common Projects, New Balance, and Nike
• Bags and wallets from Smythson and Mismo
• Ties and pocket squares from Drakes, Bigi, Battistoni, Isaia, Brioni, and Simonnot Godard
  

You can see the whole selection here.

Keep reading