Category: Uncategorized

I realized sometime last year that my wardrobe is sorely lacking in good dress coats. They’re harder to find now that fewer and fewer men wear tailored clothing, but they do exist. You can find them in traditional shops such as O’Connell’s and some more modern ones such as Brooks Brothers. You can also go vintage, which is an especially good option given how well coats tend to hold up (and how much money can be saved between buying a new vs. used). The third option is to get something custom made, which is what I’m hoping to have done. 

On my wish list is a deep navy Guard’s coat, which I plan to use for formal occasions; a traditional camel-colored Polo, which will less formal; and a tweed Polo, which less formal still. I fell in love with the idea of a tweed Polo after seeing Michael Alden in one here and here. (Michael has disallowed the embedding of his videos, but his coat is fantastic, so you ought to click through). Beijing1980 also commissioned something similar last year, which you can see in the photos above and below. Both are truly magnificent. 

Thus far, I’ve bought my fabric: a 21oz herringbone tweed that looks like the crust of a freshly baked loaf of bread (perhaps the crust that will protect my ever-expanding, soft, doughy belly?). It was woven by Molloy & Sons, a small woolen mill located in Donegal, which as many readers know, is a mountainous county in the northwest coast of Ireland. Donegal is famous for textile production, but the number of mills has dramatically declined over the years. Molloy & Sons is one of the few remaining, and is run by a father-and-son team (literally Molloy & his son). Everything is done by them in-house, except the finishing, and the workshop is located right next to the family’s home, where generations of Molloys have grown up. 

Despite being small and new, Molloy & Sons produces pretty exceptional fabrics. The one I have is hefty, but soft, and has a nice, springy bounce when you pinch the material and roll it between your two fingers. Like other Donegal tweeds, their fabrics are valued for the many, irregular flecks of color that decorate the surface. As Jesse wrote at Put This On, these are produced by washing and felting small bits of wool before the materials are spun into yarn. Because these bits are felted, they don’t stretch out, so they “glob onto the yarn like bubble gum on a piano string.” The result is a fabric with tons of earthy character, which makes it perfect for a fall/ winter garment. 

Keep reading

Clothes can be much more than clothes. At best, they remind us of special memories, which can give meaning to our lives. Over the weekend, I had lunch with my oldest friend, Matt, who I’ve known for twenty-four years now. When we were in high school, during the mid-1990s, Matt and some other friends of mine were ‘Lo Heads – a type of clothing aficionado that collects Polo Ralph Lauren. What was deemed collectable at the time was largely determined by street style culture, hip hop music, and a blooming freestyle dance scene. In fact, I spent much of my youth in the mid-90s going to underground hip hop clubs, which people attended for only three reasons (none of which had anything to do with women, as women never attended these things). The first was to dance. The second was to see people dance. And the third was to admire certain people’s sense of dress, who more often than not were wearing Polo Ralph Lauren.  

One of the most coveted pieces back then was this black, handknit sweater you see above. It’s a thick, low-gauge, cotton knit decorated with the side profile of an Indian chief’s head. The design is actually a second generation, with the original being a women’s sweater made in early 1990s for Ralph Lauren’s short lived Polo Country Store. You can always tell which is which because the woman’s is a wool rollneck, with a white drop shadow on the RL insignia, but has no date. The men’s, on the other hand, is a cotton crewneck with an all red insignia, and is signed “RL 94” (as it came out in 1994).

Today, you can find the Indian head sweater on eBay trading between $300 and $750, depending on the condition and whether some Japanese collector is watching (they used to more than they do now). The problem is, the sizes are almost always large, and this is 1994 sizing. The cut is boxy, the shoulders dropped, and the ribbing at the hem isn’t terribly elastic. I actually don’t mind, as I think it gives the knit a nice, slouchy look, but I haven’t been able to find a size small anywhere. I’d love to buy one, however, as the sweater is much more than a sweater to me - it’s a symbol of a certain time in my youth, one filled with music, dance, art, and many good friendships. 

Matt has the sweater (in a size large), and I mentioned to him over lunch this weekend that I wish it would be re-released. “Well, if it’s ever going to happen, it’ll be in next year,” he said, “when the sweater has its 20^th anniversary.” Indeed, Ralph has re-released other pieces from the past (this Indian head shirt, for example), and recently dedicated a whole site to vintage collectors. If it’s ever going to happen, it should happen next year.

Keep reading

I’ve been really into leather jackets lately. Companies such as The Real McCoys, Toys McCoys, and Good Wear Leather for vintage reproductions; Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label, Enrico Mandelli, and Maison Martin Margiela for high-end fashion stuff; Valstar for that unique Italian take on the A1 blouson; and Temple of Jawnz for (relatively) affordable made-to-measure.  

Another company I’ve been admiring is Chapal. Having started in France in 1832, the company has belonged to the same family for the last seven generations. In the early-20^th century, they made military flight jackets and pilot uniforms for the French air forces, and in the mid-century, they made garments for auto racers. Today, they’re a luxury brand manufacturing for their own line, as well as other companies, such as Jaguar and Bugatti. Everything is made in France and designs are mostly drawn from their aviation and racing history. There are a number of blousons, including the classic A1s, A2s, and G1s; some sport racing and roadster jackets; and a pretty incredible shearling originally worn by French pilots during World War II.

Prices aren’t cheap, but they’re fairly comparable to what you find at other luxury houses. The downside is that, unlike many of those other houses, Chapal doesn’t seem to go on sale. In fact, the only US stockist I know of is Bench & Loom, and although they’re having a sale now, Chapal isn’t included. They also rarely show up on eBay (though one blue racer jacket popped up last month). So, for now, they only seem to be available at full price, and that price will deter many.

But damn if their stuff doesn’t look terrific.

Keep reading

For the last few years, Inis Meáin has been making flecked wool sweaters every fall and winter season, which their stockists describe as “Donegal knits." Not because they’re actually made in Donegal, but rather because the flecks are reminiscent of the hallmark tweeds that come out of that region. Little bits of wool in differentiating colors are allowed to glob onto the knitted yarns in irregular ways, giving the garment a beautiful, earthy feel.

In the past, I’ve only seen these made from a relatively thick, pure wool. The flecks are usually a bit nubby and add some texture. The Bureau Belfast and Nitty Gritty used to carry them, but they’re all gone now. Manufactum still has the grey one, however, and that’s the version I have. The flecks are a bit more prominent in real life than they appear in the photos. When the sweater is worn, it almost looks like you’ve somehow wrapped your torso in granite. I admit, I find the pattern a bit overpowering by itself, but it looks fantastic when layered underneath a waxed cotton Barbour jacket or a Loden coat.

This season, there are softer cashmere versions - both to the touch and to the eye. Those are available at A Suitable Wardrobe and Frans Boone, with the second carrying two more colors than the first. The navy version, however, is what I think is the real gem, and that’s available at both stores. Little bits of orange and light blue yarns decorate the surface and give the navy sweater some beautiful depth. 

Unfortunately, these they’re pretty expensive, with the lowest full-retail price starting at $500. For something more affordable, A Suitable Wardrobe has a ribbed wool-cashmere blend on sale for about $332. And although not flecked at all, Hartford York has a pretty nice green knitted scarf by for $50. It’s not decorated in the same way, but even the frugal should be able to stay warm.  

Keep reading

For a long time now, I’ve been skeptical of single monks. Not the kind with a swept back strap, like those on John Lobb’s Vale or Edward Green’s Oundle (I actually think those look kind of rakish), but rather the “garden variety,” where the strap goes horizontally across the tongue. Those always looked to me like something a friar would wear – a literal form of the “monk shoe.”

My prejudice started chipping away two years ago, when I was shopping for shoes at John Lobb and one of the sales associates bent down to fit me. Right underneath the cuff of his trousers flashed the slight glint of a buckle strap. He was wearing a pair of single monks, and I thought they looked pretty good. Sophisticated, even. Then, in the last year, Voxsartoria posted a nice looking ensemble he wore on vacation – a golden brown, checked, lambswool sport coat with a blue shirt, knit tie, grey flannel trousers, and a complementing pair of green suede single monks (I believe from Saint Crispins). And more recently, I started noticing photos of Antonio Liverano and George Cortina in single monk shoes. All of them looked great.

So, with trepidation, I decided to try a pair in what I think might be the most wearable design of all. Edward Green Mercers built on the shapely 82 last and made from the company’s antiqued dark oak leather. The straps on either side are slightly crossed, like an “X,” which I think helps mitigate the friar look. The buckle is also slightly dulled, so it doesn’t shine like a gold coin. These are from Edward Green’s recent sale, but you can buy the brown suede version from Axel’s.

When worn, I think they look pretty good. More sophisticated than a double monk, but less formal than a lace up, these seemingly go well with a casual sport coat and a pair of odd trousers. I admit, I still have some reservations, but the photos of Antonio Liverano and George Cortina below are doing a lot to change my mind.

Keep reading

Just last week, I received a couple of the deliveries from The Cloth Club. The Cloth Club, for those who may not know, is a subsection of The London Lounge, where the forum’s founder, Michael Alden, comes up with ideas for classic cloths and proposes them to the site’s members. People say what they’d be willing to buy, and whatever is “voted” to be the best is then sent to some of the world’s best mills to be woven on short runs. As a result, you can often get extraordinarily high-quality cloths that are not readily available on the market.

One of the cloths I received, for example, is this double-sided, grey/ brown, herringbone cashmere. It’s surprisingly difficult to find a herringbone cloth on the market with a suitably large-sized pattern. The advantage to having a larger scale pattern, of course, is that you can distinguish your jacket as an odd jacket, and more easily match it to shirts, which tend to not be so bold. I plan on getting the brown side of the fabric made up into a winter sport coat. 

Michael has some other really interesting fabrics planned for fall. Two I really like are the Glenurquhart checks you see at the end of this post. The first is inspired by something seen in the Duke of Windsor’s closet. It’s a large scale, brown and cream glen plaid with a striking, dark blue border. The border check is what technically makes it a Prince of Wales (which is a type of glen plaid). The other plaid - also a brown and cream - is inspired by a few pictures of Gianni Agnelli.

Part of me wonders if the ideal glen plaid might not be something like the Attolini jacket you see at the very end of this post - the one with a two-tone brown design and a faint green windowpane. The windowpane not only adds a bit more visual interest, but also seems to make the jacket more casual, which is a welcomed thing in my book.

Keep reading

There must be hundreds, if not thousands, of lists at this point on how to build a basic wardrobe. Most are meant for people who are just starting out, so they include very basic things such as a blue blazer, a dozen dress shirts, two pairs of dress shoes, and a couple of grey trousers. Helpful if you’re still being introduced to this topic, but not terribly useful if you’ve been interested in clothes for a while. 

There are a few exceptions. Here are three, written by men who have a lot to say on the subject of classic men’s dress. Be forewarned: this is not a short post, and these are not short lists. These are also meant for men who are either interested in clothes or have significant means. I think they’re enjoyable to read, so long as you take them for what they are.

Michael Alden

The first comes from Michael Alden, who has posted a couple of these lists at The London Lounge. The first delineates his version of a minimalistic wardrobe.

Keep reading

I recently picked up what I think might be the perfect summer hat: a sisal Lock & Co with a slightly shorter 6.5m brim, low fitting crown, and a dark navy band. Sisal is a type of fiber drawn from the agave plant, which is indigenous to North and Central America, but mostly grown today in Brazil, Mexico, and parts of East Africa. It’s a rather strong fiber, which is why it’s been traditionally used to make rope, twine, and sacks for agricultural purposes.

Lock & Co’s sisal hat is a few shades lighter than peanut butter and woven with a slightly looser weave. I find the combination gives the piece a more causal feel than your traditional cream-colored straw Panama. A welcomed thing when hats are so uncommon for men nowadays.

Pictured here are photos of Mark Cho in the same piece, which he wore at the last Pitti Uomo tradeshow. I admit these are the same photos that inspired my purchase. When the hat came to me last week, the brim was slightly turned up, but I found it could be easily reshaped by gently wetting the material and reforming it with my hands. And unlike my Panama, this fiber seems to have a bit more memory, so you can reshape it once and never need to worry about it again.

For those interested in one, I recommend contacting The Armoury. The model name is Napoli and the price is 2400 HKD (about $300 USD). Not a cheap purchase, to be sure, but if I could only have one summer hat, this would be it.

Keep reading

It’s great to have nice friends. A few months ago, StyleForum member Unbelragazzo (who does the excellent blog Ivory Tower Style) posted a photo of himself wearing a cream linen suit, light blue shirt, Rubinacci Victory pocket square, and Rubinacci burgundy knit tie with a slightly broken-up, cream chevron pattern. I liked how the tie looked so much that I ask if he could proxy me one next time he was in Europe. He was in Naples last month, kindly picked me up one, and sent it to me last week. I get ties with a little help from my friends.

Rubinacci has this design in a dozen different variations. The tie seems narrow at 5cm, but it doesn’t feel too thin when it’s actually worn. Once you have a jacket on, the proportions between your shirt, jacket, and tie are actually quite pleasing (at least to my mind).

For equally interesting knits, but in a wider width, check out the stock at P. Johnson Tailors. They have a similar chevron pattern, one of the best executed two-tones I’ve seen, and a sort of woven-in zig-zag design. The prices are expensive, but not that far off from what you’d pay at Rubinacci. For something more affordable, however, Exquisite Trimmings

has some nice Sozzi ties for about $70 once you discount for VAT. 

Keep reading

It’s been the dog days of summer for much of the US, but here in San Francisco, the weather has been remarkably mild. I’m actually a bit disappointed by it since I’ve been wanting an excuse to wear this linen safari jacket I got from Ascot Chang last year. It started off as the first piece in my shirt jacket project, but after changing the design from a shirt collar (self-explanatory) to a Ghillie collar (what you see above), I realized I no longer had a shirt jacket on my hands, but rather a safari one.

Safari jackets became part of sporting wear during the late 19th-century, when Westerners went to Africa for safari tours and big game hunting. Since then, they’ve cycled in and out of fashion. The height of their glamour was probably around the mid-20th century, when they became associated with Ernest Hemingway, Clark Gable, and James Bond. Then, in 1968, they became a bit more chic after they appeared in one of Yves Saint Lauren’s runway shows as part of his "Saharienne" collection. The jacket died off for a little while after that, only to then be revived ten years later as a staple piece in the original incarnation of Banana Republic (back when they were a high-end, tropically-themed outfitter, rather than just a run-of-the-mill mall brand).

The one I have from is made from a slightly heavier weight, mid-blue linen by Solbiati. There are two symmetrically placed chest pockets (button flapped) and two larger patch pockets at the hips (bellowed). The back has a half belt, single vent, and an inverted box pleat to allow for greater movement in the arms. The sleeves have shirt cuffs, the buttons are dark brown horn, and the corners of the pocket flaps are fitted with small snaps, so that they can be secured down when necessary (I was afraid that the linen would curl over time). 

I really like how it turned out, and was impressed by Ascot Chang’s price. They only charged me what three or four of their basic shirts would have cost, which is much less than the other two tailors I approached, who quoted me the same as a bespoke sport coat. With the Ascot Chang price came one fitting. 

Keep reading