Before custom shoemaking in the US was mostly bespoke and made-to-orders, there was a small niche of manufacturers who would make shoes based off of the individualized foot tracings that customers would mail in. Russell Moccasin was one such firm. They sold shoes through outfitters such as Orvis, Eddie Bauer, and Abercrombie & Fitch (when the company still served outdoorsmen and adventurers), as well directly to customers through their large catalog business.
Here are some photos of such catalogs. These date back to the early ‘80s and late ’90s. Notice that every one includes a foldout form, which has a Brannock-looking diagram on which you’re supposed to trace your foot. This tracing – along with fourteen other measurements you’re supposed to provide of your feet and legs – is what gave Russell enough information to make you a perfectly fitting pair of sport shoes.
Russell still makes custom shoes from self-tracings today. I think they might be the only firm to do so, although there are probably a few Northeastern manufacturers that I’m missing (LL Bean, from what I remember, used to offer this service, but it’s all ready-to-wear now). If you’re interested in ordering a pair, you can browse this Japanese site for design ideas. Ready-to-wear models are available at Haven, Context, Nepenthes, and Sid Mashburn, and you can find discounted shoes at Russell’s sale page and eBay account. The second will have shoes going for particularly low prices, so it’s good to check back regularly if you already know your sizing.
Personally, I’m thinking about getting a pair of their fishing oxfords, sport 1075s, or double vamp chukkas. They have a certain chunkiness that I think would look just right underneath jeans and corduroys this fall. I might place my order with the form included in their 1982 catalog, just to give someone at the company a surprise.
