Every season, I find myself wanting at least a few things from No Man Walks Alone (a sponsor on this site, although I pay for all my purchases at full price like everyone else). The store has an impressive selection covering a range of styles, from Japanese workwear to Neapolitan tailoring to contemporary minimalism. But a lot of the stuff comes together in a way that works for guys who appreciate classics without wanting to look like they’re in repro, as well as contemporary clothes without seeming overly trendy. Greg, the shop’s founder, used to work as a senior investment banker at UBS, where he had to wear a coat-and-tie. I appreciate that he has a better eye for tailoring than more casual shops, but also a more stylish take on casualwear than most traditional clothiers.
For the next three days, they’re holding an early spring sale, where you can take 20% off any full-priced item with the checkout code SPRING20. They also have some deeply discounted stragglers left in their winter sale section, although the code doesn’t stack. Here are five things that I think are particularly notable right now:
Antonio Ciongoli is no longer designing for Eidos, but a small selection of his patterns, cuts, and styles are available at No Man Walks Alone for one last season. I really like the two tonal seersucker suits this spring, which are available in olive green and a narrower striped tan (note, the jackets and trousers are sold separately). Traditional seersucker, in its blue-and-white color combination, can conjure up old-time-y ideas of Southern gentility — men chomping on fat cigars and cucumber sandwiches, swilling their mint juleps while attending lawn parties. I think the style has a certain charm, but if it feels too traditional for you, these have all the cool-wearing effect of seersucker in more modern form. Either suit would look great with a slightly textured or patterned shirt, such as a crinkly linen or bolder striped cotton. You won’t look as awesome as Tony Sylvester above, but you can pretend you do.
Look, I know there’s no way to reasonably justify a $100+ t-shirt (this one is $108, even with the discount code). Some of what you’re paying for is the fact that this was made in Japan, where wages are higher, and the shirt is constructed from an impressively soft, long-staple cotton that has a bit of heft. The graphic, which is a photo of a man reading a newspaper in a park, is also nicely printed, but at the end of the day, a t-shirt is a t-shirt.
That said, I bought this last week at full price (well, with the 10% off coupon No Man Walks Alone offers to readers of this site – code DWW10). The shirt feels a bit more substantial than your average upscale t-shirt, and the sepia-toned graphic goes well with washed blue chore coats and black leather jackets. Graphic t-shirts have gotten a bad rap over the years, not undeserved, but the right one can also look great in the right context. I prefer the muted sepia-tones in this print, but No Man Walks Alone also has a more colorful version of a woman staring down a street at sunset.
Huaraches are a traditional Mexican style of sandals. They’re mostly worn by indigenous Mexicans and those in the rural locales, but starting in the 1960s, they also became part of the uniform of California hippies and surfers. The Beach Boys even sung about them in their 1964 hit “Surfin’ USA.” The reasons for their appeal are obvious: cheap, breathable, and more versatile than flip-flops, they go well with the kind of clothes you want to wear when it’s scorching hot (e.g. stuff from Dana Lee, loose pants, trim shorts, camp collars, and yes, vacation shirts).
For me, Chamula’s version ticks all the right boxes. They’re nicely affordable at $125 (or $100 with the current promotion). They’re lightweight but also constructed from full grain, vegetable-tanned leather. And they’re produced in a Mexican workshop by people who traditionally engage in these crafts (which gives the shoes some authenticity and provenance). These can be a way to make a simple, shirt-and-pants summer outfit more interesting when it’s too hot for outerwear. Available in dark brown and tan.
When I interviewed costume designer Keri Langerman a few weeks ago, I asked her if she has any go-tos when dressing actors — certain things she finds works for any man regardless of their fitness or age. She struggled to come up with staples, instead noted that she tries to stay true to the script and dress each character uniquely. That said, she also said that she thinks anyone can look good in a Valstarino, which was the signature jacket Jude Law wore for his role as a music manager in the film Vox Lux.
If you’ve been reading menswear blogs for any amount of time, you’re probably familiar with the Valstarino. It’s a citified, Italian version of the American A-1 flight jacket — a bomber style with a stand-up knitted collar and button front. It first became popular with online audiences twelve years ago when Italian fashion editor Stefano Tonchi was pictured wearing one at The Sartorialist. These days, it’s often worn by guys who are looking for dressed-down alternatives to sport coats. The style goes well with jeans or tailored trousers, sneakers or casual leather shoes, button-up shirts or sweaters. Simon Crompton has a good post on how to wear the style. In brown, it feels classic, while in more monochromic ensembles, it can be very contemporary.
Linen knitwear sounds like a contradiction — who needs an airy sweater? But I find linen knits are a great way to add a bit of texture to an otherwise plainer ensemble, as well as keep to a layered look without overheating. The slightly slubby knit can be worn over a t-shirt or button-down, and then paired with cotton trousers and leather loafers for a casual look. You can also layer a linen sweater under lightweight outerwear, such as a hemp field jacket or stonewashed Harrington. Since they wear cooler and fresher than their merino or cotton counterparts, I find they’re ideal for those slightly chilly, summer evenings, or early spring days that still have a hint of winter.
My favorite linen knits are from Inis Meain, which are made from specially produced Italian yarns spun from Irish linen. They have a thick, dry hand, and most importantly, a slight spring-back quality. Whereas other linen knits hang limp and lose shape easily, Inis Meain’s behave like your best cashmere and merinos. These sweaters have a bit of “body” when worn, and their banded hems and cuffs don’t stretch out after a day’s wear. When the weather gets warm, you can push those sleeves up without worrying if they’ll end up looking like the legs on bell-bottom trousers. No Man Walks Alone has them in the two most useful colors: blueberry and marled gray. Just size up.