My friend Réginald-Jérôme de Mans – who’s a weekly contributor to A Suitable Wardrobe’s blog – is remarkably good at finding menswear-related items on eBay. Or anywhere on the web, really. In fact, he was a guest on A Suitable Wardrobe’s first podcast episode for just this skill. It aired almost a full three years ago, but is still available for listening here under the title “Browsing for Bargains on the Web.”
What makes RJ’s finds exciting is that they’re often things of exceptional quality, such as leather goods from Hermes; stuff from the heydays of “once were” companies such as Old England and Arnys; or items slightly off the beaten path, such as intricately designed ties and the occasional … riding whip. When I can, I try to include some of his links in our eBay roundups over at Put This On. Except for the few times when I want something for myself.
Like this old umbrella from Ralph Lauren I recently won. The handle is covered in a hand stitched, lizard skin leather; the shaft is made from a handsome, dark wood; and the frame is composed of eight strong metal ribs. It was supposedly made for the RL brand by the British Royal Warrant holders Swaine Adeney Brigg, which I admit I was originally a bit unsure of. However, there are a number of good signs: the nailed brass collar, metal tipped shaft, small mother-of-pearl button, and seemingly original, slightly yellowed, old tag hand sewn into the rib that indeed says “Brigg’ 100% Nylon Made in England.” There’s even two accompany tags – one with the Brigg label stating that the leather is lizard skin, and a small pamphlet instructing the owner on how to properly care for the umbrella. From what I can tell, this is a genuine article.
Unique makes of high-quality umbrellas tend to come in one of two forms. There are single stick constructions, where a single piece of wood is carefully bent with steam and pressure so that it forms both the handle and shaft. Then there are umbrellas such as this one, where the handle is either wholly made from, or just decorated with, a unique material. This can be metal, animal horn, exotic leathers, whangee, or anything that might set the umbrella apart from others. You can find both these types direct from their makers, or from online shops such as Oi Polloi (who has umbrellas with Malacca or leather-covered handles); A Suitable Wardrobe, Grunwald, or Mr. Porter (who have a variety of styles from Maglia Francesco, the largest Italian producer of high-quality umbrellas); Exquisite Trimmings or No Man Walks Alone (who carry my favorite maker, Mario Talarico); and online haberdasheries such as Kent Wang or Howard Yount (who offer their own private label line). The Armoury might also be a good source for Fox umbrellas now that they have a New York City store (readers in East Asia, of course, can just order from The Armoury’s Hong Kong location).
In any case, an umbrella like this today, new and without the handsome patina on the collar, would cost $825, plus shipping and duties. Thanks to RJ, I bought mine for just a hair over $250. The seller tells me that she estimates it’s about 30 years old, having originally been acquired through an estate sale, and then stored in the garage of her mother’s house for many years. Now it’s in my apartment, sitting in a corner with the other umbrellas I’ve collected, waiting to be taken out. Rainy days ahead could not feel brighter.
