The Compleat Angler is the book everyone owns, but no one has read. It’s the third most reprinted work in the English language, just after the Bible and Shakespeare. Written by an English tailor named Izaak Walton, it’s ostensibly about fishing, but fishing is just the hook to Walton’s deeper and more contemplative mediations on all things pastoral. Between his practical instructions on how to be a better fisherman, Walton interleaved poems, song lyrics, illustrations, cooking recipes, and other diversions about nature. He believed that fishing was at once a sport, a social activity, and a spiritual experience – and by connecting with it, we could become better people.
The thing to know about The Compleat Angler is that it was written during a time of tremendous upheaval. England was in the middle of its civil war; Oliver Cromwell had just executed the king; and the country was trying to set up its first Commonwealth. Walton, a staunch monarchist and devout Anglican, felt displaced, so he retreated to the countryside and sought refuge in fishing. He dreamed of the “Brotherhood of the Angle,” a group where men could set aside their political differences and unite through their shared appreciation of nature. This was transcendentalism before transcendentalism; a rejection of Hobbes’ Leviathan. It was a modest proposal that fishing isn’t really about catching fish, it’s about finding community and peace. As Walton puts it, to “go a-Angling” is to “study to be quiet.” One of my favorite passages from the book reads:
And for you that have heard many grave, serious men pity Anglers; let me tell you, Sir, there be many men that are by others taken to be serious and grave men, whom we condemn and pity. Men that are taken to be grave, because nature hath made them of a sour complexion; money-getting men, men that spend all their time, first in getting, and next, in anxious care to keep it; men that are condemned to be rich, and then always busy or discontented: for these poor rich-men, we Anglers pity them perfectly, and stand in no need to borrow their thoughts to think ourselves so happy. No, no, Sir, we enjoy a contentedness above the reach of such dispositions […]
Walton repeats the same idea later in the book:
No life, my honest scholar, no life so happy and so pleasant as the life of a well-governed angler; for when the lawyer is swallowed up with business, and the statesman is preventing or contriving plots, then we sit on cowslip-banks, hear the birds sing, and possess ourselves in as much quietness as these silent silver streams, which we now see glide so quietly by us. Indeed, my good scholar, we may say of angling, as Dr. Boteler said of strawberries, “Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but doubtless God never did”; and so, if I might be judge, God never did make a more calm, quiet, innocent recreation than angling.
A century ago, you could cleave men’s wardrobes in half, with dark worsted suits meant for the city, then tweeds and brogues designed for sport. There was a time and place for each kind of jacket and pair of shoes, and never did these intermix.
Nowadays, however, it’s possible to look like a fisherman on Fifth Avenue. And while most of these wearers have never engaged in the tradition of trout and mayfly, classic country clothes endure because they embody the pastoral glory described in Walton’s book. Everyone can relate to the experience of being in awe of nature as a child. It’s about outdoor camp outs, sleeping in tents, and skipping alongside clear water brooks to catch diminutive insects. The sound of a running stream; the smell of a thick pine forest. The dream of one day working in the natural sciences. The outdoors is where you can learn about other creatures – as well as yourself.
As a matter of practicality, fishing clothes are also well suited for early spring. Their lightweight nylons and oilskin fabrics are good for keeping unexpected showers off your back; the taller boots feel a bit more dependable when the weather is brisk. Many of the clothes also come in very wearable colors – deep olives, creams, and dark blues – which makes getting dressed in the morning easy. Like a lot of workwear, fishing clothes look better with hard wear and age, which means you don’t have to baby them.
For designers, you can check Tokihito Yoshida’s old collaboration with Barbour. It ended a few years ago, but the clothes look still great and many of the jackets were inspired by Yoshida’s love of fly fishing (the line can be found on eBay). Engineered Garments, South2 West8, and Snow Peak have also incorporated fly fishing details into their clothes and accessories over the years. Additionally, No Man Walks Alone, a sponsor on this site, has a terrific seafoam green fishing jacket from Naissance this season. The ample pocket space would be great for carrying your theater snacks, shopping receipts, and smug sense of superiority.
Then there are brands that play nearby – not technically inspired by fishing, but close enough to work well in this style. See Eastlogue’s quilted vests and trekking shirts, Sassafras’ gardening clothes, or almost anything from Kaptain Sunshine (the last being my favorite brand at the moment).
Finally, you have your footwear and layering options. I’ve been wanting a pair of Russell Moccasin fishing oxfords for years. They’re Bruce Boyer approved and seem like they’d go well with everything from jeans to corduroy trousers. LL Bean’s duck boots are just about the closest things I’ve seen to the Platonic ideal for rain boots, and Viberg’s service boots are a versatile choice for any workwear wardrobe. You can wear these with American Trench’s Donegal-esque boot socks, which I’ve been really into lately. For knitwear, try Inis Meain and SNS Herning. Their textured designs add visual interest under a casual jacket, and they’re inspired by fishermen sweaters without being too literal. Evan Kinori and Wallace & Barnes also have some handsome field shirts at the moment; Brady and Billingham are good for fishing bags.
For more options, browse shops that specialize in a workwear-inspired aesthetic. Some of my favorites include Unionmade, Blue in Green, Alpha Shadows, Standard & Strange, Superdenim, The Bureau Belfast, Context Clothing, Blue Button Shop, Independence, Stag Provisions, and Ball and Buck. The last one has actual fishing clothes, while the others will just help you fish for compliments.
Below are some fishing-style photos for inspiration. Not all the clothes are designed for fishing – some are actually hunting or riding jackets, while others are just your basic Barbours – but you know, issa vibe. I’ve also included some of my favorite fishing-themed songs at the very end of this post. I think the live version of “Donegal Danny,” which is about a fisherman who lost his friends at sea, is especially touching.
