Sartoria Solito returned to the US this year, after a five-year stint of being away. The small Neapolitan tailoring firm is run by a father-and-son team. Gennaro, the father, is known for cutting a fuller, more old-school silhouette, while his son Luigi defaults to something trimmer (although, he can also cut a fuller jacket upon request).
The firm enjoyed quite a bit of success in the States many years ago, but for various reasons, stopped visiting sometime in 2010 or 2011. That admittedly left a few customers hanging (three, that I know of), but I’m glad to say those orders are now being sorted out. I’m a big fan of the company’s distinct Neapolitan style: soft, sloping shoulders are combined with knocked-down sleeveheads and a minimally padded chest. The skirt is cut close to the hips, while the quarters gently curve away. It’s a much more rounded silhouette than what you typically see from British tailors (even ones who specialize in soft tailoring). Perfect for those who want a softer, more casual take on tailored clothing.
I’m hoping to get Luigi to add a California stop to his US tour. The only problem: there needs to be enough orders for the trip to be profitable. If you think you might be interested in commissioning something, and live near Los Angeles or San Francisco, let me know. Note: I’m not being paid in any way. I’m just hoping to round up enough orders to convince Luigi to come out, so I can order a cotton suit and summer sport coat without needing to fly to NYC.
For examples of their cut, you can see writer Tom Downey’s suit in Afar, where he had a jacket made with a slightly bigger chest and wider shoulder line (the cut I prefer). Olof Nithenius of Linnégatan No. 2, on the other hand, can be seen wearing something trimmer at Manolo. For something in between, see Simon Crompton over at Permanent Style. If you’re located in California and think you might be interested in commissioning something, drop me a line. Solito’s prices are quite reasonable, especially when compared to other bespoke tailors.
(Photos via Milan Style, Manolo, Afar, StyleForum member Manton, Men’s Ex, Voxsartoria, and Sleevehead)
