Three years ago, when I visited Antonio Panico’s workshop in Naples, he showed me three safari jackets. One was constructed from linen, another from cotton, and a third, surprisingly, from a hefty cashmere. Together, they represented how you could wear the style three seasons out of the year. The jackets themselves were a bit too big for my skinny frame, but when Panico put them on me and belted them up, I can’t say I’ve ever felt cooler.
Since then, I’ve been wanting a safari jacket I can wear in the fall, just to go with the cotton and linen ones I sometimes use in the summer. The key to making these look good, I think, is to have the garment styled more like a jacket than a shirt (which shirt jackets like these can lean either way). That means a slightly slouchier fit, rather than something overly tailored, and details such as bigger buttons at the front, bellow pockets on the hips, and – possibly – even a separate side body panel, so that the jacket has a bit more shaping.
Heavy cashmere is too rich for my blood, but I’ve been thinking about getting one made from tweed or moleskin. The nice thing about shirt jackets is that, since there’s no interior construction, bespoke pieces are much more affordable than other kinds of tailored clothing (think, something around $750, which isn’t inexpensive, but a far cry from the ~$2,500 tailors charge for bespoke sport coats). You do need a custom shirtmaker who already has your pattern, however. If he or she has to create one from scratch, expect to pay a few hundred dollars more.
For ready-to-wear, check Holland & Holland, Westley Richards, and Ralph Lauren, or browse eBay for much more affordable vintage pieces from brands such as Willis & Geiger, Abercrombie & Fitch, and Banana Republic (when BR was a safari-themed outfitter, rather than an everyday mall brand). No Man Walks Alone will also be carrying some wool field jackets from Eidos this season – one made from a 21oz gray herringbone tweed; the other from a lighter weight, 12oz burgundy wool-blend hopsack. The Armoury also used to carry safari jackets from my shirtmaker Ascot Chang, although they’re currently sold out (I’m told they may return next summer). Lastly, check Anderson & Sheppard’s Clifford Street shop. Their ready-to-wear jackets are cleverly made with interior zip pockets, earphone loops, and detachable key rings, making them perfect for travel.
(Photos via The Armoury, The House of Majd, B&Tailor, A Suitable Wardrobe, Suits of James Bond, Anderson & Sheppard, The Rugged Museum, No Man Walks Alone, Where is the Cool, Kotmj, The William Brown Project, and Westley Richards & Co.)
