There are probably hundreds of online guides at this point on how to take care of leather shoes, but few that effectively address what to do with sneakers. Over the years, I’ve tried everything – from washing machines to repurposed suede erasers to stiff-bristled brushes dipped in various mixtures. Although they’ve all been effective to some degree or another, none have been anywhere near as good as Jason Markk. Comprised of a simple brush and some cleaning solution, their basic kit takes care of everything from suede to leather to canvas.
For guys who follow denim boards, 3sixteen’s Kibata jeans might be the most anticipated release of the year. They were actually supposed to come out in late-2014, but with delays at the mill and a dock strike in Long Beach, they finally just hit stores last month.
Kibata is Japanese for unsanforized, which means customers can now get a fuller, end-to-end experience with 3sixteen’s jeans. That includes being able to customize the fit at home through various warm soaks, and appreciating more of the denim’s natural character. Sanforization, for those unfamiliar, is a process whereby a manufacturer takes all the shrinkage out of denim. In doing so, however, they also tend to flatten the fibers, which means you get something that’s a bit smoother and more uniform. Unsanforized denim, therefore, is the denim’s state as it comes off the loom, which gives you the ability to appreciate the subtle nuances in the fabric before they’ve been pressed out.
Much like suit jackets and sport coats – which can look dramatically different depending on their silhouette – the shape and cut of a shoe can be just as important as its general style and color. I don’t think I really appreciated this until I recently received a pair of Saint Crispin’s chukkas. When I originally ordered, I was worried that these might be too similar to another pair of chukkas I own from Crockett & Jones – specifically their Brecon model (available at Pediwear, although Ben Silver has better photos). When put side-by-side, however, you can see that the two couldn’t be any more different.
Let’s be honest, few of us are handsome enough to look good in just a shirt and a pair of pants, and summer doesn’t offer many chances for layering. To make up for the lack of outerwear this summer, I’ve been relying on slightly more oddball shirts. I have a patchwork piece from Neighborhood that I sometimes use as an overshirt, and then this linen popover from Visvim that I like to throw over thin tees and henleys.
The nice thing about popovers is that they’re interesting enough to wear on their own. Dressier versions such as this one from G. Inglese can be worn tucked-in with a pair of trousers for a classic Agnelli look, while more casual versions can be worn out with a pair of jeans and sleek boots. This one from Visvim is made from a soft, enzyme washed linen, and features a painted and distressed button, as well as a uniquely frayed collar line. Together with the dropped shoulder, boxier silhouette, and antique-inspired print, these details give the shirt a slightly more vintage sensibility. I typically wear it with jeans and some suede Chelsea boots, and then roll up the sleeves.
You can find Visvim at any number of places. Speciality boutiques such as Haven, Union, and Shiprock Santa Fe carry a nice selection. Mr. Porter also carries the line, and some of their pieces are discounted at the end of every season. For the best prices, however, you’ll want to buy second-hand through eBay, Grailed, or Superfuture. There’s also Stylistics Japan, who will sell you something straight from Japan (useful given the strong USD-to-Yen exchange rate). Lastly, you can check Rakuten and Yahoo Auctions Japan, although with those, you’ll want to know what you’re doing. The downside to buying second-hand or from an overseas shop, of course, is that you can’t return something if it doesn’t work out – but on the upside, prices can be a lot cheaper.
Before we had Tumblr, Wordpress, and Blogspot, some of the best menswear blogs were obscure Japanese sites that looked like they were designed during the heydays of Geocities. Centipede and Cobbler’s Web were among the best, but neither have been updated for a while. Until now, anyway. Cobbler’s Web is apparently posting again – both as a blog and on Instagram – under the name “Not Fashion, but Style.” (It’s admittedly a bit corny, but I’m hardly one to judge bad blog titles).
The blog is unfortunately written in Japanese, so unless you know the language, you’ll have to rely on the rough translations provided by Google Translate. He does write some English captions on his Instagram account though. There, you’ll find photos of bespoke shoes from G.J. Cleverley, Koji Suzuki, and John Lobb of St. James in London; vintage Edward Greens from the early John Hlustik days; and suits from Henry Poole and Liverano & Liverano. There’s also the only known (headless) selfie of the man behind the site, which I’ve included at the end of this post.
