You could take all the artisanal, handmade, bespoke cordwainers in the world, roll them up into a ball, and I still wouldn’t like them as much as I like Edward Green. Although the basics of their shoes aren’t too different from any other good firm – as, after all, these are just Goodyear welted shoes made from full grain leathers – they have a style and finishing that sets them apart. There’s no company, to my mind, that has a higher batting average when it comes to making tasteful shoes. Their lasts are nicely shaped, their designs elegant, and their leathers are burnished just enough to give them some visual depth, but not so much that they look like the pimp-ish stuff you see coming from Continental Europe (sorry, Italy).
There’s a rumor floating around that Edward Green might be raising the prices of their made-to-order shoes, which would surprise me since they just lowered them. Well, at least for simple customizations (such as a change in leather), where now the upcharge is just £150. In any case, the rumor has me thinking that I should place an order soon, before expensive things just become more expensive. Some notable models to consider:
- Dover: Arguably one of the best shoes ever designed. The piecrust apron stitching is done better here than anywhere else, and if it matters to you, it’s all executed by hand with pig bristles (rather than needles). Best made on the 606 last and in dark oak calf, but I think they’d also look really nice in burnt pine (one of the few lighter shades of brown that I think is wearable). Suede is also an option, but the apron won’t show off as well.
- Halifax: Basically the Dover, but in chukka form. Edward Green’s warm Chestnut brown would accentuate the boot style nicely.
- Newmarket: It seems silly to go to Edward Green for a Chelsea boot when you can get the style from more affordable companies. Sillier still to get them in suede since so much of what makes Edward Green special are those burnished calfs. Nonetheless, the company’s Newmarket is high on my list. I’d love to get them in a basic brown, such as mole or mink.
- Piccadilly: Edward Green has a number of nice penny loafer styles, but my favorite is their Piccadilly – a dressy model that goes well with sharply tailored sport coats. There’s an unlined loafer with a piecrust apron named the Harrow. It’s modeled after the Wildsmith loafer, which is famous for being originally designed for King George V as a house shoe.
- Olney: A unique buckle boot that’s a bit more wearable with tailored clothing than Alden’s George boot. I bought them in dark oak last year and am now thinking about getting another pair in suede.
- City Boot: Originally made for Asprey, this City Boot isn’t in their catalogs, but it’s in their archives, which means it’s available for a custom order if you know about it. I admit that bumps up the cool factor for me, but I also think the style would look great with jeans. Maybe in the company’s lesser-known brown deerskin, which has a uniquely textured surface and soft feel.
- Wells: The classic derby is such an underrated shoe. It’s not as sleek as oxfords, but that just means it goes better with sport coats and odd trousers, which is great for guys like me, who find themselves more often in odd jackets and trousers than full-on suits. Edward Green’s Wells model has finely punched broguing to accentuate the shoe’s slightly dressier nature. Also worth considering: the Oban, Westbourne, and Sandringham.
- Galway: A favorite of the StyleForum crowd. I personally like them in one color, rather than two. Mine are in walnut country calf and have a shearling lining (Eddy Green Uggs, as my friend Pete calls them).
- Downing: A slightly dressier take on an American classic. This one would be great in the company’s taupe or sandstone nubuck leathers.
- Mercer: A really nice single monk. I’ve come around to how good this style can look with sport coats and casual suits. Just check out Greg from No Man Walks Alone or Antonio Liverano. Edward Green’s Oundle is also an excellent model to consider.
- Shannon: Admittedly a funky shoe, as it’s neither fish nor fowl. As an oxford, it goes best with suits, but as a boot, it looks odd underneath fine worsted wool trousers. I like them though, and to be fair – no one notices that they’re boots until you sit down.
You can see the company’s updated catalog here. Note, the catalog will only show what’s ready-made and available for order directly through Edward Green. Specialty stores such as Skoaktiebolaget, Leffot, Axel’s, LeatherSoul, and Unipair might have their own special makes. You can also place custom orders through Edward Green or one of their stockists. I’m hoping to order a few basic MTOs next month from Skoaktiebolaget.
(Photos via Gezza’s Eyes, Rugged Old Salt, MostExerent, Leffot, Axel’s, LeatherSoul, and me)
