A few months back, I found this “book” of Liverano & Liverano’s atelier. Founded in 1948, the Florentine shop is run by master tailor Antonio Liverano, business manager Luca Giusto, and store manager Takahiro Osaki. I assume everyone is familiar with Liverano and Osaki from their appearances on The Armoury and Ethan Desu’s blogs. Every time I see photos of them, I feel like I’m being taken to school on how to dress “grown man style."
The book takes us through the entrance room, fitting rooms, and workshop. Here, Liverano and his tailors makes their distinctive Florentine style cut. To my understanding, this cut is a touch fuller for comfort, but remains trim, especially around the hips. The shape is very contoured and the chest is slightly swelled. The shoulders are structured, but slope, and the seams angle back to allow the fabric to be pulled back and roll over the shoulder. Most distinctively, the quarters (area on the jacket’s front below the buttoning point) cut away a bit more and the hem is rounded out. This gives a nice sweeping line from the tip of the lapel’s notch down to the jacket’s hem. You can see this in a few photos here. It’s a feature that I’ve come to strongly prefer, as "closed quarters” look frumpy to my eye, and Liverano does this incredibly well.
The shop looks quite beautiful and I hope to visit someday. I plan to be in Italy sometime this January, so hopefully I can make a trip.
Be sure to click through the “Read More” link to see more photos.