A Tip of the Pratt

The whole “style, not fashion” trope has always seemed really silly to me. Traditional menswear clearly still goes through trends, albeit it happens at a glacial pace. We’re in the middle of transitioning out of a trend now, for example. Men are starting to appreciate the masculinity and elegance of wider lapels and ties, moving from less than 3” to something around 3.25” or 3.5”. I personally celebrate it; wider lapels and ties look much more mature, and much less twee. As a 32 year old man, I’m not trying to impress college girls who like to squeal about Mad Men, 500 Days of Summer, or indie rock music. 

If you’re making the same transition, it’s time to learn a new knot. Now, it’s true that you’ll rarely go wrong with the four-in-hand. However, sometimes a slightly wider knot can look nicer on a wider tie, as it helps balance the visual weight at the top and bottom. For this, use the Pratt knot, also known as the Shelby knot. It’s of medium thickness - slightly wider than the four-in-hand, but not as much as the half-Windsor, which is so thick that it’s vulgar. The Pratt knot is perfect for wider ties made from lighter to medium-weight fabrics. It will give you a bit more width you need, but without all the bulk. You can also use it for when you wear spread or cutaway collars, as it helps fill the space in between your collar points, and thus doesn’t leave the two ends of your tie’s noose exposed. 

In Milan, the Pratt knot has been popular among tailors since the 1920s, and thus is known in Italy as nodo alla milanese (Milan style knot). Those Milanese know what they’re doing.  

Check the YouTube video below to learn how to tie the Pratt. It’s the only other knot you need to know in addition to the four-in-hand. 



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