The Double Monks Series, Part I: Baller Monks (Priced above $600)


(original photo credit: The Armoury)


A few weeks ago, a reader asked me if I could do a series on double monks. Well, here it is: a five-part series on the shoe that everyone lusts over. That’s right - five parts. This is a massive buyer’s guide, and at the end of it, my goal is to leave you with a strong impression of which models fit your style and budget. The first three installments to this series will focus on different tiers of double monks, sorted purely by price. I’ll begin by talking about some of the most expensive models, and by Wednesday, I’ll review the cheapest ones. Thursday’s installment will cover some discontinued lines, which you can hunt for on eBay and at outlets. Finally, Friday’s installment will conclude with how to wear these shoes and which double monks I recommend most. 

Note that this series will often discuss “lasts.” For those uninitiated, a last is the mold that defines a shoe’s shape. It looks something like this. When a shoe is being manufactured, leather is pulled over the last, and then steam and heat are applied so that the leather becomes pliable enough to conform to the last. This defines the shoe’s width, size, heel height, and toe shape. Being familiar with lasts means that you know which shoes will fit you best, both in comfort and style. If you’re not familiar with lasts yet, don’t worry, with enough time, you’ll get to know which you favor as you try on more and more high-end shoes. 

So let’s start with the first installment. This will cover double monks priced above $600. For some of you, these will be viable options. For the rest of you, however, these will just be sources of inspiration, as well as a chance to learn a little bit about why top tier shoes are able to command the prices they do. 




John Lobb’s William is probably the most iconic double monk. The William comes in two models, I and II. William I is built from pebble grain leather, features a double sole, and is typically offered in dark brown and buffalo tan. I haven’t seen the dark brown version offered in a while, but LeatherSoul has the William I in buffalo tan for $1,195. 

William II comes in black and Parisian brown museum calf. Now, if you haven’t handled museum calf before, you should make this a priority. It’s a beautiful, slightly mottled, antiqued leather made by Ilcea. You can see the leather more clearly on Ilcea’s website; it’s in their section on antiqued leathers and labeled “Radica.” Since William II uses museum calf and William I uses pebble grain, the William II model is more formal. William II also features slightly more prominent stitching on the toecap, but this looks more exaggerate on the internet than it does in real life. You can get the William II model at John Lobb for $1,240. 



If you liked that beautiful antiqued leather on Ilcea’s website, you might want to consider John Lobb’s Chapel, which is also made from museum calf. Whereas the William is built on the 9795 last, the Chapel is built on the 8000. This means it’s sleeker and has a more articulated chiseled toe. More significantly, the Chapel is a wholecut, which means the body of the shoe is completely made from one piece of leather. You’ll notice in the picture, for example, that there are no seams in the quarters (the area of the shoe that would sit near your anklebone). It’s a craftsmanship detail that makes the shoe look even more refined. I’ve had the pleasure of trying these on and they’re quite amazing. They’re a bit roomier than other Lobbs made from the 8000 last, so size down at least 1/2 a size from your normal 8000 fitting. These are available at John Lobb for $1,640. 



Let’s say you like the Chapel, but something about it is just not quite right for you. In that case, you can try Gaziano & Girling’s Oakham, which is available through Bespoke England. It’s modeled after the Chapel, but where the Chapel is a wholecut, the Oakham is made from two different leathers. The real upside to the Oakham, however, is that it’s completely customizable. You can choose the sole from one of their six different options, which even includes an oak bark tanned leather sole with a beveled waist. What do those terms mean? Well, as the name suggests, oak bark tanned leather is a type of hide that has been tanned exclusively from vegetable agents made from barks and fruits. The process takes place inside of an oak-lined pit that is ten feet deep. The hide sits in the solution for about a year. There are no mechanical movements, no chemical catalysts, and the solution isn’t heated; the hide just sits for a year. It’s a slow process, but the leather that comes out is very lightweight, very hardwearing, and very flexible. It is also highly water-repellent, but very breathable. This makes it perfect for soles. As for beveled waists, this is simply when the mid-section of a sole is shaped into a convex form, like this. The combination of the oak bark tanned leather and beveled waist gives your shoe a much more slender appearance. 

Continuing with the customization options, you can also choose a last from one of their five models, as well as select the material to be used from one of their three different leathers, or go with their suede. Lastly, you can choose the color, of which they have 35 different choices. As you can see, you can basically create whatever double monk you want through this. Even if you don’t like the photo above, trust that this level of customization will allow you to get to something you will like. That is, as long as you have the $960 to pay for it. 



One of my favorite double monks, if not the favorite, is Edward Green’s Westminster. These are made on the 888 last, which has a slightly elongated chiseled toe. This is one of my favorite lasts on the market. It’s elegant without being ostentatious and roomy enough in the toe box to be comfortable. If you’re interested in the Westminster, contact Leffot. They carry a Westminster in an antique dark oak, one of the richest Edward Green colors, as well as black (you should at least click through to see the pics). You have to inquire about pricing, but expect them to be around $1,000. 



Crockett & Jones’ Repton hits a good balance between not being too stubby or too pointy. It’s built on the 337 last, which is like their 348, but is a bit wider in the toe. It’s still very sleek, but not vulgarly so. Crockett & Jones typically come in handgrade and benchgrade standards; this is handgrade. What’s the difference? Well, both grades are Goodyear welted and machine made, but handgrades feature finer calf leathers, asymmetric lasts, and those amazing oak bark tanned soles I just talked about. The soles also have channeled stitching (which means the stitching is hidden), instead of ones that are stitched aloft (which means the stitching is visible). In short, they’re better constructed, more handsome, and are made from better materials. You can get the Repton at Ben Silver for $760. 



Crockett & Jones has another double monk almost exactly like the Repton, but instead of a cap toe, it has a plain toe. It’s called the Seymour. It’s built on the same last as the Repton and also made to handgrade standards. I haven’t been able to find an online retailer for these, but if you’re in London, the Crockett & Jones shop on Jermyn Street carries them, as does the one in Burlington Arcade. If you’re not in London, you may be able to call the stores and have them ship a pair to you. These will run you about $705. 



One thing you’ll notice in this series is that almost all double monks feature a cap toe, which can make them look slightly more formal. If you’re interested in something more casual, there are two options that come to my mind. The first is Edward Green’s Fulham, which features a ghosted blind split-toe seam and pie-crust styled apron. They were offered at LeatherSoul in Honolulu and Giuliano Venanzi in New York (now closed, unfortunately), but I don’t believe you can get them anymore. You’re encouraged to hunt, however, as the shoe is very, very handsome. The second casual double monk is Crockett & Jones’ Arlington, which is the one in the picture above. They’re built to handgrade standards and the toe is much rounder than many of the other models I’ll feature in this series, but that’s because these are meant to be fairly casual. They’re not as nice as Edward Green’s Fulham, but they’re also readily available for sale. You can get C&J’s Arlingtons at Ben Silver for $725.  



I remember when I first read about Vass many years ago, my jaw dropped when I saw the price. As I learned more about fine footwear, however, I’ve come to realize that Vass is an incredible deal. Vass shoes are entirely hand crafted out of a small artisan shop in Budapest, Hungary. Quality wise, they’re much more comparable to John Lobbs and Edward Green, but they cost about half as much. The price on these begins at around $700, which is about how much Crockett & Jones’ handgrades cost. Note, however, that Crockett & Jones handgrades are still largely machine made. With Vass, you’re getting a true hand crafted item. Like you would expect with a customizable, handcrafted shoe, you can specify the last and leathers. The F last is a bit sleeker than the U last, and you can get these made from calf, suede, or even shell cordovan. The cordovan, of course, will cost more than their basic models. If you’re interested in a pair, contact Vass to get something made-to-order. If you can stop by their small workshop in Budapest, you can also get something fully bespoke. 



Lastly, we end with Alfred Sargent’s Ramsey, another made-to-order double monk. These can be produced in two different materials (calf or suede). The calf comes in black, tan burnished chestnut, and dark brown burnished espresso; the suede comes in either black or brown. You can also specify the bottom to be either Danite or oak bark tanned leather with channeled stitching. These are built on the 99 last, which is one their best, in my opinion. The price on these is $620 and since they’re made-to-order, you can only get them through Alfred Sargent. 



Conclusion: With enough money, you can get the finest quality and an unmatched level of customization. Monks in this tier come in cordovans and the best calf leathers, sometimes even in a beautiful antique finishing. Soles are often made from oak bark tanned leather and have beveled waists, as well as channeled stitching. There are handiwork details everywhere, and in some cases, even complete handcraftsmanship. These are the best of the best. 

Now, I understand that the prices seem high, but I think these are still worth considering. Every man should have a “crowning pair” of shoes - a special pair that serves as the crest to his collection. Your crowning pair of shoes should not be Allen Edmonds. They should be something from this class of footwear, or at least something close. It’s an expensive purchase, to be sure, but such luxuries are to be purchased only once every five years or so. Most men with careers can afford something like this every five years if they just cut back their spending on other things. Ask yourself, which would be more satisfying to have - 15+ pairs of Florsheims and Allen Edmonds, or a smaller collection that’s crowned with a pair of John Lobbs or Edward Greens? 

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  12. refinedcoast said: John Lobb shoes are incredible. It’s nice to see you included the William model.
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