I always enjoy seeing Antonio Mannina pop up over at The Suitorial.* Antonio is the son of Calogero Mannina, a master bespoke cordwainer, and now runs the family’s shoe business out of their shop in Florence, Italy.
I believe most of Signore Mannina’s suits are made by Florentine tailors, but at least on one occasion, Paolo featured him in a golden tan three-button suit that was made for him nearly twenty (20!) years ago by a Sardinian tailor.
Whether they’re Florentine or Sardinian in origin, all of them are fairly conservatively styled. The fronts are made without any darts, and the soft, sloping shoulders extend a bit past Mannina’s shoulder bones. Additionally, the lengths are generously long and the gorge is a bit lower. The lapels also have a healthy width and are free from any frills such as decorative pick stitching. All in all, it’s a very handsome, conservative look.
The key for me is in how full, but still flattering, the cuts are. They allow Mannina to look comfortable and relaxed, and give each of the suitings an opportunity to express themselves in the way they roll and drape. At the same time, the jackets fit him in all the right places. The collars never lift from his neck, and the armholes are high enough that Mannina can move around without greatly disturbing the jacket. The fuller, but still well fitting, cut gives him a silhouette that looks as mature as it does elegant.
Well done, Signore Mannina.
Addendum: The writer at The Suitorial, Paolo, now has a new blog named Suitology.
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