February 2012
3 posts
Naples and Rome
In addition to my work at Put This On, I’ve recently had the honor of writing at A Suitable Wardrobe about Anna Matuozzo and Mimmo Siviglia, two custom shirtmakers in Naples and Rome respectively. Matuozzo is famous the world over for her handsewn stitching, and Siviglia is known for his clean fitting, smooth tailoring. As I noted in the articles, it’s often believed that all things...
Kilim Slippers
One of the highlights of yesterday’s Michael Bastian FW12 show was the use of Kilim slippers, which you can see in the first photo. Kilims are traditionally flat tapestry-woven carpets or rugs produced from the Balkans to Pakistan. They’re produced by tightly interweaving the warp and weft yarns to produce a flat surface with no pile. Though they’re traditionally made into rugs,...
First Look: Cucinelli SS12
I’m back. Naples was amazing and I have some articles in the works for a magazine and few websites. I’ll link those when appropriate. In the meantime, I was able to catch up with Cucincelli, who was kind enough to share with me their latest SS12 lookbook.
The collection here is not too unlike the other spring-summer collections they’ve been doing for the last eight or nine...
January 2012
10 posts
Off to Naples, Italy
I’m traveling to Naples this week and won’t update this blog until I get back. Till then, gung hei fat choi.
Guy Rover Polos
I’ve been getting along just fine with my Kent Wang polo and rugby. In fact, I think they represent a great value. $65-85 is about what I’m willing to pay for an off-the-rack casual, weekend shirt. Kent’s are well made, fit nicely, and feature a spread collar with reinforced collar band. I think they’re one of the best on the market.
The only other polos I want more are...
Affordable European Shoes: Meermin
I’m working on a post for Put This On about “affordable” shoes. I put that in quotations, of course, because everyone’s definition of affordable is different. By affordable, I mean shoes that retail for under $350, which is about the entry level price for good quality, full-grained leather shoes that can be resoled nowadays.
Meermin is on the short list of companies I plan...
Pitti Uomo, Days 3 and 4
New photos from Tommy Ton and Moon on the Moon.
Pitti Uomo, Days 2 and 3
Some more photos from Pitti. To be honest (and I know this is irresponsible of me), I’ve somewhat lost track of where I’ve gotten most these photos at this point. Some are from Tommy Ton, Nam, and GQ Eye, while others came from the Twitter accounts of Park & Bond and Nick Sullivan. The rest, I’m not so sure.
Click behind the cut to see photos from inside the show. Most of...
Nick Sullivan and GQ Italy at Pitti Uomo
Esquire’s Nick Sullivan has been posting some great photos through his Twitter. Pictured here are colorful, cashmere lined chukkas from Fratelli Rossetti; lightweight Tombolini suitings; a range of Isaia coats and jackets in innovative fabrics; elegantly tailored garments from Sant Andrea; and some country-inspired pieces from Belvest.
GQ Italy also has has some videos of their interviews...
Pitti Uomo, Day 1
Well, it’s begun. Pitti Uomo, the menswear trade show in Florence, Italy, began yesterday. Photos have been coming from Justin Chung, StreetFSN, Crazy Pangolin, and A Continuous Lean, as well as the Twitter accounts for Nice Try, Bro and The Grungy Gentleman.
In addition to the photos, GQ published a short piece by Brunello Cucinelli on what he brings with him when he travels, and...
Pictures of Gianni Agnelli
There’s apparently a new photo-blog dedicated to Italy’s own Duke of Windsor, Mr. Gianni Agnelli. I found it through tredici e lupo, the Tumblr accompaniment to 13th & Wolf.
I subscribed.
Fedeli at Herrenausstatter Braun
I was browsing Sartorial Doctrine today and found a new menswear store in Hamburg, Germany called Herrenausstatter Braun. The shop carries some of Europe’s best labels - Aspesi, Mandelli, Finamore, Cucinelli, Attolini, etc. - as well as some American labels such as Ralph Lauren, James Perse, and Woolrich. You should really check out all the companies they carry; it’s seriously a great...
Finding MA Strum in Beijing
I returned from Beijing on Monday and found that I was included in GQ Italy’s list of best fashion bloggers in 2011 and received an honorable mention at The Sig Other’s “Best of 2011” list. I’m really surprised, to say the least. Heck, I’m still surprised that I’m writing at Put This On, one of my favorite menswear blogs, and I was invited there nine...
December 2011
8 posts
Happy New Year and Many Thanks
I’m really surprised by what this blog has become in the last year. I started it on a whim last January, purely out of boredom, and it’s allowed me to meet all sorts of wonderful people. Thanks to Jesse, Pete, and Jonathan for giving me the opportunity to write, and many more thanks to people who read what I post. Also a special thanks to Lawrence for giving me some great advice this...
Split Leather
One of my favorite companies, Lotuff & Clegg, recently became two companies after the Lotuffs and Frank Clegg decided to part ways. Moving into 2012, there will be Lotuff Leather and Frank Clegg Leatherworks.
To be sure, Frank Clegg Leatherworks isn’t a new company. It was started in 1976 and for the first 25 years, Frank maintained his own line of goods. The English briefcase I own, in...
Valstar and Ring Jacket's Blousons
A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to buy a Valstarino at a significant discount, but kept waffling on whether I should take it. The Valstarino is a classic Italian blouson-styled jacket. It’s manufactured by Valstar, a 100 year old Milanese company that got its start in raincoats. Not too long after the company’s inception, however, Valstar evolved and expanded into general...
To Be Modern and British: Thom Sweeney
Some years ago, I was really enamored with slightly contemporary British cuts that were a bit structured in the shoulders, nipped in the waist, and slimmer fitting. I think this is the kind of suit that works well for a man in his late-20s and early-30s, which was how old I was at the time, but I admit I never found too many occasions to wear such a thing. New Year’s Eve parties, certain...
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The Italian Menswear Series, Part XV: Boggi
Boggi is the Milanese version of Brooks Brothers - similar in quality, price, and ubiquity, but differing a bit in silhouette. If you’ve been to Italy, particularly Milan, you can find them almost everywhere. The company started in 1939, but they really took off in the ’60s when they started creating their own brand-exclusive retail stores. Today, the company has a strong presence in...
Cobbler's Web
As a break from overstylized lookbooks, trendy cargo pants, and street shots of men at Pitti Uomo, I thought I’d bring you a collection of photos from Cobbler’s Web, a Japanese menswear site that focuses on real classic menswear. I’ve included a British Mackintosh look they’ve styled, but everything else here is showcases Italian suits and sportcoats, as well as British...
The Cutaway Single Monk
While double monks are perhaps the most over-discussed footwear style on the internet, single monks are perhaps the most under-discussed. My preference is for the dressier cutaway single monk - a term, by the way, I’ve just made up, so don’t go requesting that anywhere.
The cutaway monk is a single strap shoe with a more swept back buckle. The strap cuts back a bit further, towards...
First Look: Herno SS12
Though I know it’s a little early for it, I’ve already started thinking about spring-summer outerwear. My favorite collection so far is by Herno, an Italian company based out of Lesa, Lake Maggiore, which is just an hour northwest of Milan. The company has been making outerwear since the 1940s, and after building a strong reputation in Italy and Japan, they started manufacturing for...
November 2011
10 posts
Finealta
Though tailored-down cargo pants are a bit trendy, and have nothing to do with classic menswear, I’ll readily admit that I like them. Blame it on looking at too many Cucinelli lookbooks, Pitti Uomo street shots, and Japanese menswear blogs. The best models I’ve seen have been made by Cucinelli, Ascot Chang, and Epaulet. In searching for other brands, however, I came across Finealta, a...
The Most Affordable Double Monks Around
A reader named Sebastian emailed me yesterday and asked for my thoughts on these double monks. They’re made in Spain and sold by a German company named Shoe Passion. They’re also the more affordable double monks I’ve ever come across. With the Euro so beaten, an American could buy these for about $200 (after discounting for VAT).
The company advertises their shoes as being...
Golden Rice
Christian Chensvold at Ivy Style wrote about Brooks Brothers’ $1,000 slide belt some time ago. The trads were incredulous, but I don’t think that it beats Brooks Brothers’ $1400 rice bowls or $350 chopsticks.
Though, I suppose if you’re eating ramen for a year, just so that you can save up for some nice shoes, you might as well do it in style. Remember that Brooks has...
Epaulet Donegal Trousers
Some terrible news: Epaulet has new donegal tweed trousers, and you have a Christmas shopping list.
I guess some people will have to settle for a paperback book this holiday. At least you’ll look great while giving it.
Men's Ex on Overcoats
The newest issue of Men’s Ex is all about coats, particularly overcoats. Grey, navy, and camel overcoats are featured, many of them made by favored companies such as Cucinelli, Isaia, and Brioni. The key to each of these pieces is to have something that gives you shape, but not be so tight that you can’t wear it over a sport coat, suit, or heavy sweater. Below are some of my favorites....
The Beauty of Oak Bark Tanned Leather
The best soles in the world are made from oak bark tanned leather, and the premier source for that leather is Joh. Rendenbach Jr Tannery, which has been producing it since 1871.
The production process begins by stripping the animal hide of its hair. This is usually done by hand with a very, very large blade, which is pushed forward away from the shaver’s body. Once the hides have been...
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The Italian Menswear Series, Part XIV: Valgrisa
Some time ago, I discovered Valgrisa while browsing some shops in Moscow’s Red Square. The company is inspired by the Aosta Valley, a mountainous region in northwestern Italy that is bordered by France to the west and Switzerland to the north. The region has numerous, though almost unknown, arts and craft customs, and Valgrisa draws from both the region’s raw materials and traditional...
First Look: Howard Yount FW11 Sport Coats
Howard Yount’s fall/ winter line of sport coats are set to be released later on this week, and below are the first photos to be seen of them. There are six jackets in the collection, and all made from Italian wools.
The first four are made in Naples. These are partially-lined and half-canvassed. They feature three open patch pockets, side vents, and unfinished sleeves. Fabrics are Super...
La Vera Sartoria Napoletana's Tour
Neapolitan tailoring house, La Vera Sartoria Napoletana, has some really wonderful photos from their latest Asian and European tours. In the last few months, they’ve been holding trunk shows in Brescia, Amsterdam, Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka, Kobe, and Hong Kong (the last of which was at The Armoury, of course).
The house’s name, La Vera Sartoria Napoletana, means “the real Neapolitan...
Simonnot-Godard Pocket Squares
I find silk pocket squares to be the easiest to wear, but cottons and linens can be nice too. The best are by Simonnot-Godard, a French manufacturer that began in 1787. The company has gone through several iterations in its ~225 year history. The name that we know it by now, Simonnot-Godard, came from Victor Simonnot-Godard, who bought the firm in 1869 from his father, Auguste Godard. After he...
October 2011
13 posts
Fall Colors in Massimo Dutti FW11
Spaniard clothing brand Massimo Dutti just dropped their second lookbook for this season. The company is owned by Inditex, which is also the parent company to Zara. Unlike Zara, however, Massimo Dutti is considerably higher quality. The fabrics aren’t as thin and flimsy, and the cuts are less trend-driven. Perhaps most importantly, they’re competitively priced. Even if you were just...
Cinquanta
Ever since I saw this episode on Seinfeld, I can’t bring myself to wear suede jackets. If I were to, however, I would consider Cinquanta, a Florentine outerwear company that’s been around for about 40 years. The brand specializes in high-end leather outerwear pieces, and below are some of their suede models. Here you have jackets with thick ribbed collars that stand up straight, double...
Why Do You Hate Freedom?
Jesse just alerted me to this correspondence between Laurent Laport from Where Is the Cool and Christophe Loiron from Mister Freedom. I apparently got cited towards the end, which is pretty awesome (I think?)
Oh, and above? That’s my Mister Freedom chambray shirt. I bought it because Mister Freedom makes the best ones.
Carmina Opens Its Online Store
Carmina appears to now have an online store. It was previously a bit hard to order their shoes, as you’d have to be in Spain or Paris, where they have boutiques, or near one of the few stores in the world that carried their products. You could also order over the phone, but sometimes that was not the easiest. Now, however, they can conveniently be ordered online.
For their quality-to-price...
La Portegna
In searching for some travel slippers, I recently came across La Portegna, a small Spanish company located in Madrid. The founder, Jose Urrutia, has strongly nostalgic and romantic ideals about traveling. Part of this was passed onto him by his grandmother, who travelled to Africa with Ernest Hemingway. Part of this is also from his own travels around the world, which he did alone in his early...
Rose and Born FW11
I’m sure everyone reading this blog is familiar with Rose & Born, the menswear store in Stockholm that Lawrence at Sartorially Inclined has written quite a lot about. The shop carries many of your top-tier-brands, but also features their own house line of suits. These come in three models: a structured British cut, a soft-shouldered Italian/ American cut, and a fashion-forward trim cut....
Cucinelli in Men's Ex
A friend of mine wants more suits that he can “take apart” (ie wear the jackets and pants as separates). I generally find this very difficult to do, especially if you’re on a limited budget and constrained to off-the-rack garments. Suits often have a certain drape and sheen, and if you pair them with odd-trousers, you’ll just look like you spilled something on your pants...
Hackett FW11
I’ve always thought of Hackett as a British version of Ralph Lauren, but I’ve heard that they once had a rich and more original design heritage. I don’t mean that in a bad way of course. Some people call Brunello Cucinelli an Italian version of Ralph Lauren, after all.
For FW11, they continue much in the way they have been the last few years - wonderful looking quilted jackets,...
An Inside Look at Drake's of London
Mark Cho of The Armoury emailed me some very special photos some time ago after I interviewed him about his new role at Drake’s of London. The photos were of Drake’s operation - both on the manufacturing and retail side - and I was quite pleased to be able to get a behind-the-scenes peek at one of my favorite companies.
I’ve included the photos below. The first set is of their...
Cruciani FW11
In the picturesque region of Umbria, known for its beautiful villages and Medieval architecture, Luca Caprai founded a small Italian knitwear company named Cruciani. The company is relatively new - only about thirty years old - but in that short period, they’ve created an impressive brand that rivals Avon Celli and Malo. Garments are made from the company’s original line of yarns, some...
Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe
The great thing about Europe is that travel can be quite cheap. I may be in Berlin next month, and I’m thinking about stopping by Vienna on my way home to Moscow. A flight is just $80 with taxes (without taxes, $12), which isn’t too bad at all.
One of my motivations is to stop by Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe, a venerable cloth merchant that started over 145 years ago. The store has...
Inside an Italian Wool Mill
It’s always a pleasure to get a behind-the-scenes look at how things are made. In Kiton’s latest FW11 catalog, they take us through one of the Italian wool mills they work with. This particular mill is located in Biella, a region that has been known for centuries for its fine textiles. Given the caliber of Kiton’s garments, it’s probably safe to assume that this is one of...
Merrow British Clothing
Over the weekend, I discovered a new and interesting outfitter called Merrow British Clothing. Unfortunately, there’s little information about the company; their website says little and Google yields nothing more. They also only sell one product - a vintage styled smock inspired by alpinist jackets from the ’50s and ’60s.
Though there’s not much on their website, the one...
September 2011
19 posts
Watching Anderson & Sheppard's Tailoring
Anderson & Sheppard has long been the sphinx of Savile Row, as known for its silence and inscrutability as its exquisite tailoring. For much of its existence, clients were referred to the house by other clients, and the company’s policy was not to speak to the press. In 2004, however, Anda Rowland became Anderson & Sheppard’s vice chairman. Her father bought the the company in...
Marinella's Ten Tie Commandments
On the eve of the first World War, in 1914, Eugenio Marinella opened a shop in Piazza Vittoria, on the Riviera di Chiaia in Naples, Italy. As reported by taste-arbiter Matilde Serao, in her column for Ape, Mosconi e Vespe, the first customers were presented with violets and Floris Cologne. Don Marinella wanted to make his store more than just about clothing, however; it was to be a place to meet...
Jesse Thorn at GQ
My colleague at Put This On, Jesse Thorn (aka Jay-T aka JT the Blogga Figga), just got featured at GQ.
Jesse gets interviewed so often that it’s not even a big deal anymore to see a feature on him. This article, however, is really, really worth reading. It touches on all sorts of great topics about Jesse, menswear, and Put This On. Makes the whole fortune of writing over there even more...
Heritage Videos With Substance
As part of the “heritage brand” revival, there have been an endless number of videos produced on manufacturing. Most of them, unfortunately, are quite superficial. Buzzwords such as “heritage,” “craftsmanship,” and “quality” are thrown about, moody music is put over slow motion footage, and some grizzled man will talk about how much he likes his job....
Controlling Leather Quality at Lotuff & Clegg
Lotuff & Clegg, an American leather goods manufacturer based in Massachusetts, has a good section on the quality leather that goes into their bags. Their tanning procedure begins by putting dried-out, stiff, leather hides into wooden drums along with a mixture of bark extracts, fat liquors, and organic dyes. The drums are slowly rotated and carefully monitored until the right color and...
The Death of British Eyewear Manufacturing
In the past thirty years, Britain has slowly lost its eyewear industry, and the reasons why link back to a number of political economy missteps.
In post-war Britain, the new Labour government created a set of eyewear frames through the National Health Service (NHS), and offered manufacturers a subsidy if they would produce them. Nearly all British manufacturers took advantage of the offer and,...