Die, Workwear!

January marks the beginning of a number of tradeshows, first starting in London, then moving to Milan, Paris, and New York City. Pitti Uomo is the most important for tailored clothing, although lately, I’ve been paying more attention to London Collections: Men (LC:M), which is a five-day show showcasing a breadth of British fashion talent – from the world’s most innovative designers to Savile Row tailoring houses (at least the ones that now have seasonal ready-to-wear lines). Even for guys who might not be interested in runway presentations, there’s a lot here to admire. From Barbour to John Lobb to E. Tautz, here are eight shows that caught my eye last week.

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Anyone who’s ever been to a small, traditional American clothier knows – places such as Cable Car Clothiers and The Andover Shop are treasure troves for new-old stock clothes. Unlined button-down collar shirts, bleeding madras jackets, vintage outerwear, and piles and piles of scratchy sweaters. Mostly things from the ‘60s, ‘70s, and ‘80s, when things were made with the kind of qualities trad enthusiasts like to gush about today. 

I recently picked up this deadstock Aran sweater from O’Connell’s, who sells a ton of new-old-stock clothes online (although, they have even more in-store, if you’re able to stop by Buffalo, New York). It’s thick, heavy, and beautifully textured. The inside label reads “Glenshee Woollens,” which is apparently now defunct. The one photo of them I could find online, shown at the end of this post, charmingly shows two old ladies peering out of the company’s window. 

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I recently realized that almost everything I find interesting in men’s clothing nowadays can be traced back to the early days of Armani. I’m not talking about the slouchy, luxe languor look that emerged after the mid-80s, but rather the toned-down version of that style that was first introduced a decade earlier. 

In the popular press, Armani is often credited with having invented soft tailoring, although that’s only half true. The soft Italian look had been around for decades before Armani came along, although it was largely only available to clients of bespoke tailors (mostly because ready-to-wear was still in its nascent stages during the first half of the 20th century). Domenico Caraceni in Rome published a book about it in the early 1930s, and Vincenzo Attolini pioneered the technique in Naples through his work as the head cutter for Rubinacci. What Armani did was introduce a version of that style to the mass market, making even the softest of Madison Avenue shoulders look bulky. 

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Parties used to require some pretty remarkable clothes. In 1951, eccentric millionaire Carlos de Beistegui threw a masquerade ball at the Palazzo Labia, an old, baroque palace in Venice, located on the banks of the Grand Canal. The theme for the night was Venetian life in the 18th century, just before the fall of the republic, so guests showed up in these fantastic costumes made of embroidered fabrics and intricate lacework. It might have been one of the most lavish social events in the 20th century. Guests arrived by gondola, as motorboats were forbidden, and were then greeted by this surreal spectacle that only a filmmaker could dream of. Nick Foulkes has a nice account of the event in this video. 

One of the most legendary parties in the US was thrown by Truman Capote in 1966, who that year saw his social standing reach lofty heights on the success of his book In Cold Blood. The event was held at New York City’s Plaza Hotel Grand Ballroom, which Capote considered the last good ballroom in America, and the guest list read like a veritable “Who’s Who” compendium of the 20th century. Attendees included Arthur Miller, Andy Warhol, Henry Ford II, Rose Kennedy, Frank Sinatra, Gianni Agnelli, and hundreds like them. As Sarah Jane Rodham put it, “at the Black and White Ball, the Old Guard and the Avant-Garde danced together.” 

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Mr. Porter just started their end-of-season sale, with discounts of up to 50% on select items. Lots of familiar labels, such as Drake’s, Common Projects, and Red Wing, as well as a number of not-often-discounted brands such as William Lockie and George Cleverley. Some notables that I found last night:

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The 1964 film Umbrellas of Cherbourg opens with this beautiful scene of Paris. It’s a wet and dreary day, and the camera pans down to one of the city’s dark-grey and muddy-brown roads. A few seconds in, someone wearing a yellow raincoat walks across the street. Then someone else opens a red umbrella. Suddenly, the screen is filled with bright coats and pastel-colored canopies – and just like with the rain, colors begin to pour across the screen.  

I think of that scene sometimes when choosing an umbrella. Black is the only color that should be in everyone’s closet (it goes with everything), but if I don’t need to look serious that day, I usually reach for something more cheerful. Bright yellows and reds are too dandy for me, but the colors that usually work well for neckwear also do pretty good for canopies – British racing green, chocolate brown, and deep navy. If I do pick a black umbrella, it’s almost always the vintage Ralph Lauren with a leather wrapped handle – rarely the plain cherry wood that I thought would be a staple. 

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End is probably the only online retailer that rivals Mr. Porter in scope and quality. Today, they start their end-of-season sale. Take 25% off across the board with the checkout code SALEPREVIEW. Some notables:

• Margiela’s German Army Trainers, including the white/ grey colorway. 
• Reimagined workwear from RRL, Engineered Garments, Needles, and Nigel Cabourn (the last of which made the coat you see above)
• Lots of knitwear – including Fair Isles from Jaimeson’s, cabled fisherman sweaters from Inverallan, textured knits from SNS Herning, and speckled Donegals from Howlin’ by Morrison
• Ten C, a new favorite outerwear brand for me
• Belstaff jackets, including the Roadmaster
• Field jackets from Aspesi
• Raincoats from Stutterheim, Nanamica, Elka, and Mackintosh
  
• Bags from Filson, Head Porter, South2 West8, Epperson Mountaineering, and Master Piece
• Retro-inspired running trainers from Spalwart and Nike
• Rugged boots from Oak Street Bootmakers, Red Wing, Yuketen, and Trickers
• Swim trumks from Orlebar Brown

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Men’s style had it rough in the 1970s. Sometimes referred to as the decade taste forgot, the ‘70s was characterized by tight shirts, bellbottom trousers, and the piles unrotting synthetics that will probably outlast this civilization. The clothes of that age, as well as the lifestyles, were as lurid as they were chaffing. 

Not everything was terrible, however. What decade is better defined by corduroy sport coats and shearing collar jackets? Or those puffer vests that eventually peaked in the ‘80s? For as many companies that made flashy, disco-inspired clothes, there were just as many that relied on simpler, rugged charms. 

One of those was Rocky Mountain Featherbed, which was founded in the Cowboy State of Wyoming by Francis “Cub” Schaefer. RMFB specialized in down-filled outerwear with Western-style yokes, which became popular with skiers and ranchers across the American West. These were worn during the days when Colorado ski instructors were still likely to be seen in cowboy hats. Unfortunately, after a decade of success, the company went bust in the ‘80s and Cub lost control of his label to bankers. 

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You know you’re into clothes when you pray for bad weather. After a four-year drought here in California, we’re finally getting some real rainfall this season. I had a chance to break out my Belstaff Roadmaster this past weekend, and was reminded of why I bought this thing in the first place. Built with a waxed cotton shell and a belt for easy closure, this jacket makes for a great casual raincoat – even if it was originally intended for tougher purposes. 

Belstaff’s Roadmaster is actually an adaptation of the company’s Trialmaster, which was originally introduced in the 1940s. The Trialmaster’s name comes from the Scottish Six Days Trial, a grueling event where competitors covered as much as 100 miles a day on road and off-road routes for six days. For those harsh weather and riding conditions, Belstaff built them a coat that would be windproof, waterproof, and resistant to tearing. Although it wasn’t the first jacket of its kind (Barbour’s International came out about ten years prior), it’s certainly become one of the most iconic. 

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As James Brown once sang, I got a bag of my own. My go-to for the longest has been a chestnut-colored English brief from Frank Clegg, which he’s been producing since the 1970s. It’s well-made, beautifully designed, and formal enough to use with tailored clothing, but casual enough for today’s backpack world. I highly recommend it to anyone looking to buy their first briefcase, especially since Frank offers a lifetime in-house service for repairs and restorations. This is the sort of thing you can use for decades. (Disclosure: Frank is an advertiser on this site, but I’ve been a fan of his for years). 

There are a few bags, however, that have been on my wish list – iconic items from some of the world’s best leather goods companies. 

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